Rolex Submariner on Black Rubber Strap

Why Are Rolex Watches So Expensive?

When friends or family ask “Why are Rolexes so expensive?” I think they're expecting a simple answer. But the truth is very layered. With Rolex watches spanning several price-universes and influenced by both technical build and market dynamics, the full picture takes a bit of unpacking.

I’ve broken these influences into two broad categories: what the watch is (materials, mechanics, quality control) and how the market treats it (scarcity, resale, pricing). These categories don’t capture everything, but they give a good sense of what drives the cost.

Rolex’s materials, mechanics, and quality control

Rolex GMT-Master, Sea-Dweller, Submariner, and Explorer from 1950s

Image Source: watchpro.com

Rolex has built its reputation over nearly a century by getting the fundamentals right. The "waterproof" Oyster case, introduced in 1926, remains the backbone of their collection. By getting core designs right early, the brand has been able to pursue steady, intentional evolution rather than frequent radical overhauls.

Rolex Daytona models in various metals

Image Source: hodinkee.com

On the materials side: most steel Rolex watches use the proprietary alloy known as Oystersteel (based on 904L) rather than the more common 316L stainless. Oystersteel offers superior corrosion resistance, useful for waterproof watches exposed to varying environments. That added performance comes with higher cost, both in raw material and in machining. Then add in precious metals: yellow gold, Everose (Rolex’s rose gold), white gold, platinum, two-tone combinations and even titanium. These all require different tooling, different finishing protocols and bespoke R&D effort (titanium only entered the main catalogue in recent years).

Rolex Yacht-Master in RLX Titanium

Mechanically the watches carry even more of the cost. Every modern Rolex leaves the factory as a Superlative Chronometer. That means first it goes through the independent COSC certification and then Rolex completes its internal regulation to a daily accuracy of about ±2 seconds, verifies water-resistance, anti-magnetism, rotor efficiency and power reserve. That dual-layer testing and regulation is time-intensive and expensive.

Rolex Caliber 4130

Image Source: rolex.com

On production volume, the brand now sits around 1.17–1.20 million watches per year (for 2024) according to the most recent Morgan Stanley / LuxeConsult data. That’s higher than the roughly 1 million often quoted in earlier years, but still modest relative to global demand. The company is investing heavily in a new facility in Bulle, Switzerland, but that won’t meaningfully expand output until later this decade.

What a Rolex actually costs right now

Rolex GMT-Master II 'Pepsi' On Curved End Rubber Strap

U.S. catalogue pricing as of October 31 2025 begins with the steel Oyster Perpetual 28 at approximately US $5,800. The 34 mm is about $6,050, the 36 mm around $6,350. These updated figures reflect the May 1 2025 U.S. price increase (about 3 %) in response to Swiss-import tariffs and currency pressures.

At the top of the newly announced 2025 models is the platinum, diamond-set Land-Dweller 40, priced at approximately US $118,050 in the U.S. market. A 36 mm platinum Land-Dweller with diamonds sits around $95,750. That said, there are still gem-set variants of the Cosmograph Daytona that list even higher (in the range of $137,000–$141,000) though those are niche, ultra-low volume outliers. For general purposes the Land-Dweller now represents Rolex’s most recently introduced “hero” piece at the highest catalogue price.

Scarcity and the 2025 market reality

Although production has increased relative to older “circa one-million units” figures, Rolex still makes only about 1.2 million watches globally per year—far fewer than the demand. That supply-demand gap remains one of the core reasons why Rolexes feel expensive. At the same time, the secondary market has softened compared to the peak years of 2021-22. Data from Bob’s Watches and WatchCharts indicates the average resale price for a Rolex in mid-2025 hovers around US $13,400—down from a high of roughly $17,000 in early 2022.

Image Source: Wrist Aficionado

Waitlist dynamics have also shifted. Where a steel Submariner might have required 100+ days of waiting in 2023, by 2024 the figure dropped to about 60 days; the same trend holds for the GMT-Master II and Explorer models. That doesn’t mean you simply walk in and buy any model you like—steel sport models and platinum or gem-set units remain allocated—but it signals that the extreme scarcity has eased somewhat.

Because many collectors and buyers assume resale liquidity and waitlist premiums will persist, pricing at retail still absorbs a “scarcity premium,” even when wait times shrink and resale gains moderate.

Pricing power, resale, and why it sticks

Rolex’s pricing power is rooted in its global recognisability, resale ecosystem and consistent brand positioning. Because there is a robust worldwide market for Rolex watches, the brand can implement price increases (such as the May 2025 hike) with minimal disruption to demand. Even when resale values drop from a peak, they remain significantly above many other brands of comparable quality.

For buyers, this translates into an internal calculus: you buy a steel Submariner or GMT-Master II at, say, $11,550 or $12,300, knowing there exists a global second-hand market that can buy it back from you. That resale buffer offers psychological comfort and helps justify the retail premium. The newly introduced Land-Dweller matters in this regard because collectors already believe Rolex will support it. Thus, part of the “why are Rolexes expensive” answer lies in how the market behaves once the watch leaves the boutique.

So, why are Rolexes so expensive?

In short: because the watches are built to far above minimal standards, out of high-cost materials, using rigorous testing, in limited quantities, and because the market values them accordingly. As of October 31 2025 the entry point into the catalogue is just under US $6,000, while the latest flagship model pushes beyond US $118,000. There is still no alternative brand that offers that combination of build-quality, global resale support and brand recognition at this scale.

That doesn’t make Rolex cheap, but it does clarify what you’re paying for. The value proposition is more transparent than it used to be: retail increases persist, secondary market gains have moderated, and the “you can flip a steel sports Rolex for huge profit” mentality needs updating. Prices are high because everything around them—from materials to consumer behaviour—is built to support them. The better question for a buyer isn’t “Why is it so expensive?” but rather “Does this particular model and price point make sense for me?”


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