What Was The First Rolex Submariner? A Brief History of the Reference 6204

The Rolex Submariner reference 6204, produced in 1953 and released in 1954, marks the beginning of one of the most recognizable dive watches ever made. Its purpose-built design laid the foundation for the now decades-long Submariner lineage. Let’s take a look at the history of the 6204, a watch that set the standard for what a dive watch should be.

A Prelude to the Submariner

To understand the importance of the Submariner 6204, it’s essential to look at its predecessors. In 1926, Rolex introduced the Rolex Oyster, the first waterproof wristwatch. With its screw-down crown and case back, the Oyster established Rolex as the preeminent player in waterproof wristwatch technology. This innovation would later become a key feature of the Submariner (and most every Rolex watch since).

In the early 1950s, Rolex continued to innovate. The Rolex Turn-o-Graph, reference 6202, was introduced in 1953, the same year as the Submariner. While the Turn-o-Graph was not a dive watch, it featured a rotating bezel for tracking elapsed time—an important precursor to the Submariner’s underwater function.

Enter the Submariner 6204

Image Source: Monochrome Watches

The Submariner reference 6204 debuted as a purpose-built dive watch when underwater exploration was gaining popularity. Rolex recognized the need for a reliable, durable watch that could handle the conditions of deep-sea diving. The 6204 delivered with a water resistance rating of up to 100 meters (330 feet). In 1953, this was a significant achievement.

The 6204’s design is simple and functional, with a black rotating bezel marked with 60-minute graduations for tracking time underwater. The large, luminous hour markers and hands ensured legibility in low-light conditions, a crucial feature for divers. These elements established the core look of the Submariner, which has remained consistent over time.

Image Source: Monochrome Watches

One distinctive feature of the 6204 is the absence of the now-iconic Mercedes hour hand, which was introduced later. Instead, the 6204 features pencil-shaped hands. The dial also lacks the “Submariner” name, an omission that reflects Rolex’s evolving approach to branding at the time.

Function Over Frills

Image Source: HQ Milton

The Submariner 6204 was powered by the Rolex caliber A260, an automatic movement with shock resistance. While not as advanced as modern calibers, it performed well under the demands of diving. Combined with the 6204’s Oyster case and screw-down crown, the movement made the watch a reliable tool for divers.

Legacy and Evolution

Rolex Submariner ref. 6205 Image Source: Tropical Watch

The reference 6204 was only produced for a short time, but it set the stage for future Submariner models. Months later, Rolex introduced the very similar Submariner 6205, which had a small crown and would later adopt the Mercedes hand. There is much speculation regarding the first few Submariner references, specifically the timeline of their releases. Over the years, these references evolved with improvements like increased water resistance, crown guards, and in-house movements.

As you can imagine, the Submariner 6204 remains a sought-after collector’s item. Its place in the early history of Rolex dive watches makes it an integral piece for enthusiasts who appreciate its role in shaping the future of the Submariner line, and more broadly, wristwatches in general.

Conclusion

Image Source: Corrado Mattarelli

The Rolex Submariner reference 6204 was the first step in the development of a line that would become one of the most iconic dive watches in the world. While later models would bring refinements that we know, love, and now associate with the Submariner, the 6204’s straightforward design is emblematic of the period in which it was born, laying the groundwork for everything that followed. It remains an important piece of Rolex history and a key moment in the evolution of the modern dive watch.