My Favorite Watches of 2024 So Far

With most of 2024 now in the books, I’d like to highlight a few of my favorite releases. The list includes everything from microbrands to Rolex, divers to dress watches, and is in no particular order. Let’s get into it.

Doxa Sub 200T

Image Source: Hodinkee (James Stacey)

Days before Watches and Wonders 2024, Doxa unveiled the Sub 200t: a 39mm take on their iconic Sub 300(t) design from the late 1960s. The downsized 200t features redesigned case proportions and ditches the domed crystal in favor of a flat sapphire.

At $1,000 less than the Sub 300 (with the same COSC-certified Sellita SW200 movement), the 200T slots in as a widely-wearable new entry point for the brand. The sub-40mm sizing also appeals to the ever-growing enthusiast appetite for smaller tool watches (an appetite that Tudor is keen on serving).

Oh – and it’s available in 13 dial configurations. I love having that many options as a consumer, but would hate to be a retailer ordering these things.

Blancpain Bathyscaphe Ceramic Complete Calendar

Image Source: Teddy Baldassarre

I don’t want to get too deep in the weeds here, but to me, this is the ultimate modern Blancpain. 

The Blancpain Bathyscaphe was originally designed in the 1950s as a smaller (35-38mm) version of the iconic Fifty Fathoms. As illustrated by my last pick, the Bathyschape’s origin story perfectly aligns with modern sizing sensibilities.

In 2019, Blancpain put a complete calendar movement in their modern Bathyscaphe, combining the spirit of the brand’s mid-century diving history and the watchmaking of its 1980s revival (the ‘Six Masterpieces’ era). Now in 2024, the Bathyscaphe Complete Calendar is available in full black ceramic, bracelet included. Just to be clear – this is a ceramic dive watch with 300 meters of water resistance . . . and a whimsical little moonphase aperture. How could you not love it?

Tudor Pelagos FXD Chrono ‘Cycling Edition’

Image Source: Tudor

I feel like I’ve written about this watch every day since it came out, so I can’t stop now. Tudor’s B01-based chronographs — Black Bay Chrono, Alinghi FXD Chrono, and now this — pose remarkable value around the $5,000 mark. The carbon-cased ‘Cycling Edition’ is a standout example, not just because of its distinctive black-and-red design, but due to its status as a non-diver within the Pelagos family.

Nowhere else will you find a hyper-light chronograph with a vertical clutch movement of this caliber (no pun intended), and to me, the spiral tachymeter design is an absolute knockout. If you’re interested in this watch, you can find my full writeup on it here. 

Furlan Marri Disco Volante

Image Source: Hodinkee (Tony Traina)

Speaking of knockout designs, Furlan Marri recently unveiled a collection of ‘Disco Volante’ or ‘Flying Saucer’ watches. The collection is inspired by saucer-shaped watches from Omega and Vacheron Constantin (circa 1930s) and notably the 1950s Audemars Piguet ref. 5093 (designed by Gebhard Duve, not Gerald Gente). 

While the Furlan Marri Disco Volante is a bit thicker than its vintage counterparts (8.95mm instead of the 5093’s 2.5mm height, for example), it’s more than welcome as a modern interpretation of the elegant cult classic shape.

Astor+Banks Sea Ranger M2

Image Source: aBlogtoWatch

Frankly, I don’t know much about Astor+Banks. I know they’re based in Chicago – close to where I grew up – and I’ve seen their watches at Windup, but I’m not intimately familiar with their collections or origin story.

I do know, however, that I’m a sucker for the following three things: dual-crown watches, 12-hour bezels, and thoughtful dial design. When I saw the new Sea Ranger M2 (with the Tobacco dial), I immediately loved it. Notice how the hour hand perfectly meets the dial’s innermost circle, then how the minute and seconds hands perfectly meet the (fully-lumed) internal rotating bezel. Something about this watch just tickles my fancy; it had to be included here.

Rolex GMT-Master 126710GRNR

Image Source: Rolex

If we’re talking about actual watches and not the hype or expectations surrounding their releases, the new Rolex GMT-Master 126710GRNR is one of my favorites from 2024. When Rolex released the black-and-grey (GRNR) bezel on the gold and two-tone GMT-Masters in 2023, I couldn’t help but picture it on an all-steel watch. The next year, my daydream became a reality.

This new GRNR shares the understated charm of the 116710LN, but adds the iconic bi-color design that will forever be associated with Rolex GMTs. As the most “basic” GMT config in Rolex’s catalog, I long for and honestly expect a day where this watch can be had, pre-owned, under its MSRP. I won’t hold my breath until Rolex’s temporary production facilities are up and running.

Final Thoughts

These six watches stand out to me as favorites, but only seven months into the year, I could ramble about cool 2024 releases all day. (And I have). What are your favorite watch releases of the year so far? Let us know in the comments below, and if you’d like to customize your Rolex, check out our curved end (integrated) rubber straps tailor-fit for specific references.