Thoughts On The Tag Heuer Aquaracer Professional 200

In late 2022 I wrote an article about the Heuer Carrera (LINK) and briefly mentioned the history of Heuer which eventually became known as Tag Heuer. While the brand’s popularity has seen ups and downs due to certain partnerships the brand has made and certain collections it has released, it is nevertheless a major player on the watch scene. It does produce popular models such as the Carrera and the Monaco which are fans favorites. It also produces a line of professional divers, the Aquaracer, that is praised by many. 

Although the Aquaracer line comes in various sizes, complications, and colors, in this article we will discuss the Aquaracer Professional 200. I chose this one because it is the closest to the average professional Swiss-made diver one can find on the market today, and although it is cheaper than say a Submariner or Seamaster, it does have more or less the same size and depth rating. 

Source: www.sharpmagazine.com

Short History of the Aquaracer Collection 

Although today Tag Heuer is better known for the Carrera and especially the Monaco, the brand has also been dipping its toes into the category of professional dive watches for quite a while. Since 1978 to be exact when it released its first professional diver, the reference 844 (see picture below.) The 844 rapidly morphed into the Series 1000 which marked the first few years during which the brand made dive watches. The 844 came with a 42mm case diameter, an ETA 2872 caliber, and a Submariner-style dial layout with a Mercedes hour hand, and hour markers in the shape of an inverted triangle, batons, and circles. 

Source: www.chrono24.fi

In 1982, Tag Heuer created the Series 2000 which aimed at making this style of watch more popular. Given the Quartz Crisis that plagued the Swiss watch industry in the 1980s, Tag Heuer felt it was necessary to popularize its professional line of divers by adding different styles, colors, and sizes. Some of the models that came out of the 2000 series seem to have contributed, to the best of my knowledge, to the decrease of the brand’s popularity. Indeed, some of the 2000 models looked a little too funky for some. 

Source: www.chrono24.fr

Lastly, Tag Heuer created a third generation of divers and named the collection Aquaracer. The Professional 200 we are looking at today inscribes itself into the latest generation of Aquaracer’s and, therefore, will have certain of the visual characteristics that have now made this line of watches popular again. When Tag created the Series 2000, it had divided up its collection into three sub-categories: Classic, Exclusive, and Sport. Today’s Aquaracer is more or less an amalgam of all three series and leans more in the “sport” category than any other. 

Source: www.zeitauktion.com

The Aquaracer Professional 200 Specs and Design  

Ok, the history part was longer than I expected! However I felt it was important to go over the history of dive watches Tag Heuer has been making since the late 1970s to build context around the current version. And again, the Aquaracer Professional line comes with many models—a couple of dozens to be a little more exact—and even offers models with 30mm cases. However, I wouldn’t be able to cover all of their differences in one single article so you will have to please forgive me for only focusing on one model. 

Source: www.monochrome-watches.com

The Aquaracer Professional 200 comes in with a case 40mm in diameter and a thickness of 11mm. It is powered by the in-house Caliber 5 which beats at 28,800 BPH (4Hz) and is COSC certified. The unique dial design is topped by a piece of sapphire crystal, and this watch seems to be very versatile thanks to having a stainless steel bracelet with extension link (which I believe equals to diver’s extension) and 200 meters of water resistance, as its name clearly indicates. 

From a design perspective, the Aquaracer does look unique. Its broad pencil-style handset coupled with triangular-shaped applied hour markers makes reading the time a breeze, while the horizontal lines on the dial add a unique visual effect. There is a discreet date aperture at the 6 o’clock and a minute track that seems to be raised from the dial. The angular bezel matches the angular and bold lines of the case, giving this watch a resolutely sporty appeal. Lastly, the stainless steel bezel matches the color and finish of the case. 

Source: www.monochrome-watches.com

My Thoughts on the Aquaracer Professional 200 

So, what do I think of it? Well, I think it's’ a handsome diver that comes with a unique visual DNA and some serious specifications. I’m not the type to linger on the past of a brand and some questionable models it released several decades ago. After all, what one likes and doesn’t like in a watch is highly subjective. With that said, I feel that Tag Heuer managed to create a professional grade diver that constitutes a compelling offer and which gives dive watch enthusiasts a serious option that is also much more affordable than, let’s say, a Rolex Submariner. Indeed, the Aquaracer Professional 200 retails for a little below $3,000. 

Source: www.monochrome-watches.com

Final Thoughts 

Whether or not you like the design, the Aquaracer Professional 200 is a capable diver made by a Swiss brand with a history that dates back to 1860. This is not a small affair given the current and fierce competition within the Swiss market for professional tool watches. Tag Heuer has a history, it makes its watches in Switzerland, and it managed to create something with its own DNA. But that’s just me. What do you think of this diver? Please leave your comments below.

Featured image: www.sharpmagazine.com