When it comes down to it, most of us really need one watch and in 2021 it will be a sport watch. As much as I imagine a lifestyle that I would have to wear a classic dress watch, the fact of the matter is that I very rarely have the need to wear a suit, let alone a tuxedo. If I have to attend a wedding or funeral, I can either wear a sport watch (no one will notice) or not wear a watch for that day.
Photo by Fratello Watches
So fundamentally as watch collectors, it’s very difficult to choose just a single watch to wear everyday for the rest of your life. I would choose the Rolex Submariner 14060M as my one watch. It’s an obvious choice because of all my watches it can truly be labeled a classic.
The most recent iteration of the no-date Submariner, the 124060, is no doubt a very strong contender to also serve as the one Rolex collection. It has the thinner lugs and ceramic bezel and is said to wear similarly to older Subs that came before the Maxi Case 114060, which has noticeably wider lugs. But, alas, it’s nearly impossible to get your hands on the newest no-date Submariner. I like to point out it doesn’t need to be called a “no-date Submariner” because it is THE Submariner. Everything else is actually called a Submariner Date by Rolex and is not the original Submariner.
So back to the 14060M. It has a 3130 movement, which is a rock. And most importantly it has drilled through lugs that give it an extra cool detail that should be part of any tool watch. I’m also fond of the rattly hollow-end link Oyster bracelet with the stamped “tuna can” clasp. It feels cheap off the wrist, but on the wrist it feels like the most comfortable bracelet in the world.
Photo by HQ Milton
The general proportions are classic Submariner and the smaller dial markers are more elegant than the new Maxi Dial. (Yet, somehow, I will admit that the Maxi Dial with five digit sub case style in the 50th anniversary 16610LV Kermit is amazing.) Another practical advantage of a five-digit Sub is that I still don’t have to worry about being too careful with it. It’s not vintage yet and a service at Rolex Service Center about five years ago provided a thumbs up for water activity.
As for the one Rolex role, having a timing bezel does come handy, especially when you are cooking steaks on the grill poolside. The rotating bezel does also help with the overall proportions as opposed to the 39mm Oyster Perpetual, which looks bigger on the wrist because of the dial size. My white 39mm OP is definitely a strong contender to fill that one-watch slot, but the overall classic-ness of the five-digit Submariner wins out. It’s ideal for going for an all-classic outfit with a white button-up Oxford shirt, beat-up Levis 501s and some Alden loafer finished with some Ray-Ban Wayfarers.
You can rock your Rolex Submariner 14060M on an Everest Strap. Check them out here.