My Three Favorite Current-Production Rolex Watches
We’ve all imagined the scenario–you’re at a Rolex AD with free reign to choose any model you’d like. So-called waitlists are of no concern and money is no object. But what if, instead of choosing a single watch, you could walk out with three? That is the framework of this article–my three favorite current-production Rolex watches that, if given the opportunity, I would take in a heartbeat.
Rolex Yacht-Master 42 in RLX Titanium
Image Source: Hodinkee (Mark Kauzlarich)
Released last year, the Yacht-Master 42 in RLX Titanium could be seen as one of Rolex's most contemporary designs. This is (obviously) due to its full-titanium construction. The strong hyperlight material has long been recognized for its utility in watchmaking, but only recently have we seen its potential in terms of machining and finishing techniques (*cough* titanium Lange Odysseus *cough*). The titanium Yacht-Master is a prime example of this with its sharply-contrasting satin-brushed and mirror-polished finishes. Just look at those lug chamfers.
As a design evolution of the Submariner, the Yacht-Master is a bit more refined with sub-12mm thickness and dramatically curved lugs. On the titanium version, the star of the show (for me) is the matte black ceramic bezel insert. Its raised and polished indices are quintessentially Yacht-Master and perfectly compliment the watch’s dark brushed appearance: more so than on the polished white gold version with the same insert.
I can’t get enough of this watch. It’s a standout inclusion in Rolex’s current catalog, combining the utility of a titanium Oyster case (with a Triplock screw-down crown) and the refinement/modernity of the Yacht-Master. Does the 50.3mm lug-to-lug measurement scare me a bit? Yes. Does that dissuade me from choosing the watch? Absolutely not.
Rolex GMT-Master II ‘Pepsi’
Image Source: Hodinkee (Mark Kauzlarich)
This pick hardly needs an explanation. The GMT-Master II 'Pepsi' is one of those watches that everyone recognizes from across the room. Its bi-color red and blue bezel insert, made of ceramic since its 2014 reintroduction, pays tribute to the original 1950s GMT-Master while showcasing the technology of modern Rolex. While I prefer the smaller case design of 5-digit references, I can appreciate the bulkier, hard-wearing modern super case design.
Not that you’d want to, but you almost never have to take this watch off. Whether you’re at your desk or traveling the globe, it’s always nice to reference a second time zone. Rolex sports watches have always occupied most of the casual-to-dressy scale (cue the obligatory James Bond Submariner example), and the modern Pepsi GMT is no exception. The caliber 3285 is dead accurate, efficient (70 hours power reserve), and of course offers independent local hour hand adjustment.
To be perfectly honest, this is a watch that I’m afraid to own. As a collector, I value optionality; owning a wide variety of watches for life’s wide variety of occasions. If I owned a Pepsi GMT, I fear that it would be the only watch I reach for, at least for a few years. This fear alone predicates this watch’s inclusion on this list.
Day-Date 36mm Everose Eisenkiesel Dial
Image Source: Oracle Time
The Day-Date is, in many ways, the final boss of Rolex collecting. The arching 12 o’clock day readout, fluted bezel, and President bracelet just scream prestige, as does the model’s lack of a steel configuration–you have to go full precious metal. This is the President’s watch, the retirement watch, the end game.
With that spirit in mind, my last pick is wildly over the top. Rolex currently offers a 36mm Everose (rose gold) Day-Date with an eisenkiesel dial. Eisenkiesel is a dark brown-black quartz material with scarlet red veins splintering throughout. The history of stone-dial Rolex Day-Dates is a fascinating one, and I love that Rolex is carrying on the tradition. This particular configuration is only available with diamond Roman numerals–an addition that I could do without, but that feels entirely appropriate on this watch.
In this hypothetical world in which I own these three watches, this Day-Date is probably the one I'd wear the least. However, it’s the one I'd think about the most. The one I'd reach for just to admire it. What would your three Rolex watches be? Let us know in the comments below, and if you’re looking to customize your Rolex, check out our selection of curved-end (integrated) straps for various references.
Leave a comment