The Evolution of the Rolex Clasp: From Stamped Steel to Glidelock, and What That Progress Cost

For most of Rolex's history, the clasp was simple. Stamped from thin steel and folded into shape, it did what it was supposed to—it closed the bracelet. Those early clasps were sophisticated components for their time, especially in steel, which required real skill to shape at watchmaking tolerances. But compared to what came later, they were mechanically straightforward.

Rolex Glidelock Clasp. Image Source: Rolex

By 2010, when Rolex introduced the Submariner reference 116610 with its Glidelock system, the clasp had become one of the most mechanically complex assemblies on the entire watch. Inside sat a rack-and-notch mechanism with machined engagement teeth, locking rails, and springs designed to hold position under load—allowing tool-free adjustment in 2mm increments.

Modern Rolex clasps are heavier, larger, more complex, and more dependent on exact tolerances than anything produced before 1990. They're also substantially better built. Understanding how the clasp evolved explains what changed—and what that progress cost.

Stamped Steel Rolex Clasps (1930s–1998)

Riveted Rolex Clasp From the 1950s (no. B5835). Image Source: From Time To Times

Through most of the twentieth century, Rolex relied on Gay Frères, a Geneva-based chainmaker founded in 1835, to supply bracelets and clasps. Gay Frères designed the Oyster bracelet around 1947-1948 and created bracelets for models like the Submariner ref. 5513, GMT-Master ref. 1675, and Explorer ref. 1016.

These clasps were stamped from thin gauge steel and folded into shape. They relied on friction and a single fold-over mechanism. No micro-adjustment, no secondary lock, very little mass. By modern standards, these clasps honestly feel simple. But they matched their watches—thinner cases, narrower bracelets, lighter overall packages.

Rolex Jubilee 'Big Logo' Clasp Circa 1959. Image Source: Nefeg

These stamped clasps could absorb impacts through slight bending rather than resisting deformation. When dropped, the thin steel would flex or gradually deform rather than fracture. They might slowly bend out of shape over years of hard use or develop play at pivot points. But they also failed—broken welds, dents that hindered functionality, stretched pivot points. Over the decades of a vintage watch's lifespan, clasp damage is almost to be expected. The difference is that simpler clasps could often be fixed by independent watchmakers, and replacement clasps in modest condition can be had for a few hundred dollars.

In-House Production and Thicker Construction (Late 1970s–1998)

U.S.-Made C&I Rolex Bracelet Clasp Dated "76" or 1976 (No Month). Image Source: Wind Vintage

As Rolex pursued greater control in the late 1970s and 1980s, bracelet construction changed. Stamped components became thicker. Tolerances tightened. The company made some bracelets in North America starting in the 1950s until about the mid-1970s—C&I made USA-made riveted Oyster bracelets, and there were bracelets marked "Hecho en Mexico." But Gay Frères remained the primary supplier until Rolex acquired the company in 1998.

1988 Rolex Submariner ref. 16610 Clasp. Image Source: Lunar Oyster

This period saw folded-link bracelets around 1967 (replacing rivet construction) and the first solid-link bracelets in the mid-1970s. The Submariner ref. 16610 (1988) and GMT-Master II ref. 16710 felt noticeably more substantial than predecessors. The clasps followed—still simple in mechanism, but built to a larger spec and tighter tolerances.

By the time Rolex fully committed to solid-link bracelets and milled clasps in the late 1980s and 1990s, the quality gap was obvious. Four and five-digit era bracelets feel chinsy compared to the solid-link bracelet on a modern Submariner. The entire package—links, pins, clasp construction—stepped up dramatically in actual durability and build quality.

Oysterlock: Another Line of Defense (Late 1990s–2000s)

Oysterlock clasp, opened. Image Source: Rolex

The Oysterlock clasp formalized Rolex's focus on preventing accidental opening. Featuring 15 micro-technical components, it added another line of defense and provided a nice tactile click taking it on and off.

By the early 2000s, Oysterlock clasps were standard on professional models. The secondary safety catch added to both the profile and complexity, but changed how the watch felt—owners now interacted with the clasp in a different way.

On-the-Fly Adjustment (Mid-2000s–2010)

Rolex Easylink Extension. Image Source: Rolex

The real transformation came when Rolex decided bracelets should feature tool-free, on-the-fly adjustment, not limited by links, half-links, and springbar tools. Your wrist shrinks and swells with temperature and exercise—why shouldn't the bracelet adjust to match?

Easylink, patented in 1996, offered a subtle 5mm comfort extension hidden under the clasp—a single extra link that could be pulled out or folded back without tools. For dress watches like the Datejust, Easylink provided just enough adjustment for wrist expansion. It's tactile, solid-feeling, and simple.

Rolex Glidelock Clasp, opened. Image Source: Chronos24

Glidelock went much further. Introduced in 2008 on the Sea-Dweller Deepsea ref. 116660, then extended to the Submariner ref. 116610 in 2010, Glidelock allowed 20mm of adjustment in 2mm increments while the watch remained on wrist. The system used a rack and slider track with ten V-shaped teeth concealed under the clasp cover. The adjustment is smooth, tactile, and feels completely secure at every position.

The bracelet detaches from detents on the underside of the clasp and slides in grooves machined in the underside. Those grooves and engagement teeth needed to be hardened, precisely cut, and held to tight tolerances. Springs needed consistent tension across thousands of cycles. The clasp grew dramatically in size, mass, complexity, and price. This prominence feels balanced with the equally upsized modern Rolex super cases—both evolved together toward greater mass and presence.

What Changed When Clasps Became Machines

Modern Rolex clasps use 904L stainless steel (now branded Oystersteel), hardened materials, and welded construction. They're miles ahead of vintage clasps in terms of actual durability, build quality, and materials. The Oysterlock alone contains 15 components. The Glidelock adds more complexity with its rack-and-notch mechanism.

That complexity and precision engineering means these clasps are more expensive to replace when damaged. Issues typically involve Oysterlocks that lose their 'click' or just fall off, dents that affect the geometry just enough to affect closure smoothness, or welding points that snap completely.

Broken Rolex Oysterlock Clasp. Image Source: Reddit

Because these are welded assemblies with interdependent parts, Rolex service centers often replace the entire clasp rather than repair it, depending on the issue. A new clasp can run several hundred to a couple thousand dollars depending on the model. Independent watchmakers can sometimes repair damaged clasps using laser welding, but Rolex's official policy is replacement.

When a modern clasp breaks, it's not only disappointing for the owner—they have a relatively new watch that's supposed to outlive them with a major component broken—it's also a much more expensive proposition. But that cost reflects what these clasps are: nicer, more complex, better-made with better materials.

The Cost of Progress

Rolex Sea-Dweller Deepsea Challenge Clasp. Image Source: Rolex

Every major step forward added capability. It also added mass, thickness, exposure, complexity, price, and simply—more moving parts.

Vintage four and early five-digit stamped clasps were thin, light, and simple. The clasp folds over and snaps closed—that's it. This low-profile design with minimal moving parts proved to be relatively robust. When dropped or struck, the thin stamped steel might just bend a bit, still working as a clasp. Like the bracelets they're attached to, these older clasps stretched and developed play over time, and less commonly suffered broken welds and bad dents that affected function. The entire bracelet felt chinsy compared to what came later.

Everest Rubber Deployant Straps For Rolex

Modern Glidelock clasps maintain perfect function for years, adjusting smoothly thousands of times, then can fail when tolerances are exceeded by impact. The precision that makes them work so well also makes them less forgiving, and more expensive, when damaged.

The shift reflects a broader philosophy change at Rolex—more capability, more complexity, more cost. The modern clasp does more, feels more substantial, and is built to a higher standard. When something does go wrong, the repair costs reflect that reality.