How the Rolex GMT-Master II Became What It Is Today

In 1983, Rolex released the first GMT-Master II. Its predecessor, the GMT-Master, was originally designed to help Pan Am pilots read two different time zones at once—the local time and GMT (Greenwich Mean Time). But the watch quickly attracted a broader audience of travelers, and interest grew enough for Rolex to release a follow-up model.

The first reference of the GMT-Master II was the 16760. When it debuted, the watch featured a black and red bezel, setting it apart from the blue and red insert on the original GMT-Master. That original color combination earned the nickname “Pepsi” due to its resemblance to the soda brand’s logo. In turn, the new black and red version came to be called the “Coke.”

Those who frequently used the GMT's travel functionality appreciated the upgrades from the original GMT-Master, especially the most significant one: the independently adjustable local hour hand. This allowed travelers to change time zones without stopping the watch—a real step forward in usability.

Cultural Shift and Collector Appeal

Image Source: Noah's Fine Jewelry 

At first, “Pepsi” and “Coke” were just casual nicknames collectors used to describe the bezels. But over time, Rolex leaned further into the identity of the GMT-Master II as a colorful, travel-ready companion. In 1989, the Pepsi bezel was reintroduced on the GMT-Master II. Then in 2007, Rolex released the Lunette Noir—an all-black version with a ceramic bezel insert. It was the first time ceramic was used on a GMT-Master II.

That change brought mixed reactions. Ceramic offered much greater scratch resistance and color durability over time. But others felt the model was losing its vintage charm. The shiny, reflective finish on the ceramic bezel was seen by some as too flashy. Over the years, however, many came around to the updated look and materials.

Fortunately, my father owns a 16710, the last reference with an aluminum bezel. Personally, I think the ceramic bezels elevate the look. Because they’re thicker, the bezel numerals fit the layout more cleanly. That said, I can see why some might find the shine a little much—it’s definitely more reflective than aluminum.

The Ceramic Era and Beyond

Curved End Rubber Strap for Rolex GMT Master II Ceramic Deployant

The future of the GMT line was uncertain, but far from over. In 2013, Rolex released the “Batman,” nicknamed for its black and blue ceramic bezel insert. Reception was strong, and demand spiked immediately. By that point, many collectors had embraced ceramic bezels, and Rolex continued to build momentum with new colorways.

Each new release quickly earned a nickname, and while not all of them were equally popular, they each contributed to the growing hype. The ceramic insert helped reshape the GMT-Master II’s identity, giving the line a more modern, elegant aesthetic.

Final Thoughts

What began as a practical tool for pilots has become one of the most recognizable and in-demand watches in the world. The GMT-Master II’s evolution shows how function, design, and cultural relevance can converge in a single reference.

While its dual-time functionality remains intact, the watch now represents much more. Its nicknames, colors, and materials give each version a distinct personality. Today, the GMT-Master II stands not just as a tool, but as a cultural icon—one that reflects how watch design can shape, and be shaped by, collective taste.