Hidden Gems: Rolex Picks for February 2024
For this installment of Hidden Gems – our bimonthly series highlighting favorites from the preowned Rolex market – we have the quintessential modern Milgauss, an understated two-tone GMT, and the ultimate Day-Date. Fully-authenticated listings for each watch are included courtesy of Hidden Gems’ sponsor, Bezel. More on Bezel and their in-house authentication after this week’s preowned picks.
Rolex Milgauss Z-Blue Green Sapphire (116400GV-0002)
Currently listed on Bezel for $10,910
The Rolex Milgauss, discontinued last year at Watches and Wonders, is a bit of a black sheep in The Crown’s catalog. Rarely do we see sweeping changes in Rolex model families; the brand is famous for their slow-and-steady approach to design evolution. However, all three generations of the Rolex Milgauss have seen near-comprehensive visual overhauls.
The short-run first generation (ref. 6451) is essentially unobtanium: any good example is worthy of living in a museum. The second generation (ref. 1019) can be had for no less than $25,000 and, in my opinion, lacks the unique characteristics that make the Milgauss special (at least the visible ones). The recently-discontinued generation – those with 6-digit reference numbers – are widely-available for around (and often below) their original retail price. One configuration stands out as the quintessential example of the modern Milgauss: the Z-Blue dial with a green-tinted sapphire crystal. The bright orange seconds hand and minutes track pop against their complimentary-colored blue dial. All this is seen through green-tinted sapphire: something that Rolex had never done before this model and has not done since.
At the time of publishing, there are 21 examples of the Z-Blue Rolex Milgauss available on Bezel, with the lowest price at just $10,910. For the most sought-after configuration of a categorically unique, discontinued Rolex sports watch, this could be the best price we see in some time.
Rolex GMT-Master II ‘Root Beer’ (126711CHNR)
Currently listed on Bezel for $18,700
Of all the cleverly-nicknamed Rolex GMT-Master configurations, the brown and gold ‘Root Beer’ is perhaps the least talked about. In 1970, over a decade after Rolex unveiled the GMT-Master ref. 1675, they released a brown, steel, and yellow gold variant in the ref. 1675/3. Over the subsequent decades, this ‘Root Beer’ color motif ventured in and out of Rolex’s catalog, existing today under the solid Everose (rose gold) ref. 12675CHNR and the two-tone steel and Everose ref. 126711CHNR.
Despite its lower price, I feel that the two-tone model has a bit more going for it. With the majority of its surfaces being brushed steel, this watch feels right at home as an everyday wear. The rose gold accents, while polished and lustrous, blend nicely with brown and black such that they don’t dominate the look of the watch. It truly is “unusually understated”, as Bezel’s Head of Watch Operations, Ryan Chong puts it.
At the time of publishing, there are 48 examples of the two-tone ‘Root Beer’ Rolex GMT-Master II available on Bezel, with the lowest price coming in at $18,700. As with most current Rolex watches, the Root Beer GMT trades above its retail price of $16,150. For some context, however, the two-tone steel and yellow gold GMT-Master II still trades above $20,000. As modern precious metal GMT-Masters go, the ‘Root Beer’ is approachable in both its wearability and pricing.
Rolex Day-Date 36mm Platinum Ice Blue (128236-0008)
Currently listed on Bezel for $67,500
The Rolex Day-Date should need no introduction. Its iconic fluted bezel and three-link ‘President’ bracelet make for perhaps the most recognizable watch silhouette of all time. For decades, the Rolex Day-Date has been a symbol of success, occupying the wrists of world leaders, Hollywood stars, etc. For nearly all 67 years of the watch’s existence, a platinum version has existed. However, not until 2022 was a platinum Day-Date offered with a fluted bezel. This marriage between Rolex's iconic bezel design and their most illustrious precious metal is not only historically significant – it’s just plain cool. Paired with an Ice Blue dial – the color Rolex uses to distinguish “the noblest of metals” – this watch is a complete knockout.
At the time of publishing, there is only one example of a Rolex Day-Date 36 in Platinum with an Ice Blue dial, with an asking price of $67,500. This is a watch that, even if you have an extensive purchase history with a Rolex authorized dealer, is hard to obtain. If you’re in the market for a platinum Day-Date, especially one with a fluted bezel, you might not get a better opportunity than this. Bezel can get it to you in 3-5 business days with a certificate of authenticity to boot.
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