First and foremost, and if you didn't already catch this, the dial is pink. Before today, the steel Tudor Black Bay Chrono could only be had in black or white. When I first saw the pictures this morning, my initial thought was “why is the pink so dark?”. After spending more time with the press photos (which are surely not rendered, doctored, or otherwise unreal), I’ve come around on the shade. I actually think it looks good, especially with the red dial text and seconds hand tip.
Other than the pink dial, everything new can be found on the bracelet. Most obviously, the bracelet itself has been updated with the five-link design we saw on last year’s refreshed Black Bays. To many people’s delight, the faux-riveted Oyster-style bracelet is no more, and I agree with Danny Milton that “I have to think this is a bracelet combination coming for the entire range”. When we saw this five-link bracelet introduced last year, I had mixed emotions. I really liked it on the smooth-bezel Black Bay 31/36/39/41, but was somewhat ambivalent about it on the Black Bay Burgundy. Today’s release tells me that Tudor is all-in on this bracelet, and it will likely make its way onto more models. Unsurprisingly, the bracelet features a T-fit clasp: Tudor’s beloved microadjustment system that is slowly making its way onto all Black Bay models. I see this new bracelet as a vehicle to update models with T-fit. I wouldn’t be surprised to see it on a Black Bay 58 in a few days.
With updates out of the way, let’s talk about what has stayed the same with the Tudor Black Bay Chrono ‘Pink’. The movement has not changed, the 14.4mm thickness has subsequently not changed, and the dial design has not changed. I could be wrong, but I think this release is telling that we won’t see an in-house (non-Breitling) Tudor Black Bay Chronograph this year. Now, that doesn’t exclude an in-house Heritage Chrono revival or new Pelagos FXD Chrono, but I’d definitely be surprised to see a refreshed BB Chrono in 12 days. I’m all but certain that Tudor’s next amendment to a chronograph model line will feature a Kenissi movement similar to the one inside Tudor’s 2023 OnlyWatch submission (excluding one-offs and limited editions like this one). The next Black Bay Chrono generation will almost certainly by thinner and feature an updated dial design, or at least refreshed proportions.
The biggest takeaways from this limited edition release are twofold: Tudor is all-in on this five-link bracelet and they’re more-than-happy to continue releasing watches outside of the traditional trade show structure. The five-link bracelet is a bit of a surprise to me, but it makes sense that Tudor would want to create consistency amongst Black Bay models (and appease the rivet haters in the comments). The divergence from a trade show release structure is nothing new, but is worth noting. It’s clear that Rolex, Tudor, and numerous other brands plan on releasing watches as they see fit, not worrying about cramming all or even most of their releases into one week. This is no doubt a result of the ever-powerful tool that is social media and, more recently, the global pandemic. Since 2020, brands and consumers alike have grown accustomed to releases that don’t align with in-person events.
What do you think of the Tudor Black Bay Chrono ‘Pink’? Leave us a comment below or email at blog@everestbands.com.
All images courtesy of Tudor
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Image Source: Hodinkee
First and foremost, you can expect live coverage of every Rolex and Tudor release. We know our readership is most interested in these brands, and as such, they will receive priority. While Rolex’s hands-on availability is ultra-restricted, I’m all but certain we’ll get hands-on content with Tudor’s novelties, be it at the fair or their Geneva pop-up. Needless to say, we’ll keep you up to date with pictures, videos, and written content across Everest’s blog and social media channels.
Image Source: Monochrome Watches
Rolex and Tudor aside, we’re pleased to be meeting with a handful of brands one-on-one, many of whom we didn’t meet with last year. These private meetings give us the chance to handle and photograph some of the most impressive watches ever created. You can expect hands-on coverage of high watchmaking brands like Laurent Ferrier, Gerald Charles, Czapek, Louis Moinet, Ressence, and Beauregard, as well as higher-production brands like Oris and TAG Heuer. Simply put, I’d like to get my hands on as many interesting watches as possible and share them all with you. If I learned anything from last year, it’s that most brands are happy to share their creations, regardless of whether or not you have a meeting.
I’m most excited for the watches that I'm not even anticipating. Last year I was pleasantly blindsided by releases like the JLC Reverso Tribute Chronograph, Cartier Privé Normale, IWC Ingenieur, and so many more. That’s the magic of Watches and Wonders: you turn the corner and discover a minutes-old model from one of your favorite brands.
Image Source: Hodinkee
Of course, I’m excited for whatever Rolex has in store. If I weren’t, I wouldn’t have written all those prediction articles. I’m most eager to see what happens with the GMT-Master II. There are so many directions The Crown could go with this model: introduce a ceramic ‘Coke’, release an RHD version of the ‘Sprite’, discontinue the ‘Pepsi’, etc. There’s so much buzz around this model that, whatever they do (or don’t do), it will be front page news.
I think Tudor will have another big year – I’m anxious to see which model is next in line for the METAS treatment. If the Black Bay 58 doesn’t see a refresh this year, I won’t be the only one surprised and disappointed. That watch is due for a T-fit clasp and, at this point, some ‘Master Chronometer’ text on the dial. There’s also a strong possibility we see an in-house Tudor chronograph; we know their movement manufacturer Kenissi recently developed such a movement. If you want a full list of predictions, check out our Tudor Prediction Recap, these are just a few that I’m looking forward to.
This will be my second year in attendance at Watches and Wonders. Having experienced the fair, I’m going into this year with a whole new perspective. I plan on maximizing every second that I’m in the Palexpo, taking a million pictures, meeting with as many brands as possible, and overall making the most of this once-a-year opportunity. It’s not everyday we have access to such a wide variety of incredible watches; better yet, we’re in the unique position to share them with people. Watches aside, I’m of course looking forward to the pomp and circumstance of the thing. Watches and Wonders is one of the most extravagant trade shows in the world, fit with endless espresso, champagne, and food that I can’t pronounce. Last year, I wrote an article detailing what it’s like to attend these private days, and I plan on releasing an updated version this year, as well.
What are you looking forward to? If there’s anything you’d like us to cover (releases, specific questions for brands, etc.), let us know in the comments below or email us at blog@everestbands.com. I’m happy to be your Watches and Wonders conduit.
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Image Source: MD-Watches
Image Source: Hodinkee
Second, and this is going to hurt if it happens, but the Pepsi variation of the GMT Master II has been rumored for years that it’s on its swan song. PLEASE ROLEX DO NOT DO THIS!!!!!! This is an icon in your stable. I for one may shed a tear if this beauty is a goner in 2024. C’mon Rolex, don’t do it.
Image Source: aBlogtoWatch
Third, the all-gold puzzle dial 36mm Day-Date. This amazing work of craftsmanship has not made it to many wrists in the past year. From years of following Rolex, I recognize this as a sign that they are going to kill it off. The dial seems like a real pain in the butt to make, and I suspect that Rolex will put this masterpiece out to pasture in 2024. I’ve also noticed that Rolex loves to make a Day-Date variation for a year or two and then cut it from the roster.
Image Source: Hodinkee
Last up is the ‘Celebration Motif’ Rolex Oyster Perpetual: I have a gut feeling that Rolex is going to drop this watch like 3rd period French. Looking to the past, the Turquoise 41mm variation of the Oyster Perpetual was in production for about twelve months, and this gorgeous example of Rolex having fun seems like the next up at the guillotine. I love this watch also, and frankly love that Rolex was so bold with its use of color. However, the second I saw it – I just got the feeling this was a one-year-only watch.
In closing, we are going to be covering the Watches & Wonders show this year. Expect some exclusive coverage on our Instagram; as we find things out, so will you! Our writers will be on the ground in Geneva to cover the show and get you to-the-second information about what Rolex, Tudor, and many other Swiss brands will be releasing (and discontinuing) in 2024.
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Image Source: acollectedman.com
Christian Zeron of Theo & Harris posits that last year’s Rolex Day-Date ‘Puzzle Dial’ could be an indicator of Day-Dates to come. With the tandem-released Oyster Perpetual ‘Celebration Dial’ containing all colors of Rolex’s past (2020) OPs, the enamel ‘Puzzle Dial’ could contain all colors of future enamel Day-Dates. Will we see these enamel Day-Dates in 2024? Rolex’s continued production of a few models makes me think otherwise. For more information, check out our full enamel Rolex Day-Date prediction article.
Image Source: swisswatch.net
Whether or not you (or Rolex) count 2024 as an anniversary year for the Submariner, our lack of anything Sub-related in 2023 leads us to believe we’ll see something this year. If Rolex were to honor the anniversary of the Submariner’s official release at Basel Watch Fair (in 1954), what would a 70th anniversary Submariner look like? More broadly, what will the next anniversary Submariner look like? For this prediction article, I enlisted the help of our team at Everest, all giving their thoughts on what they’d like to see in an anniversary Rolex Submariner. To read everyone's picks, check out our full Submariner 70th Anniversary Predictions.
Image Source: md-watches.com
The Yacht-Master II is one of the most interesting yet outdated designs in Rolex’s catalog. Much like the Milgauss early last year, people are wondering whether Rolex will redesign or discontinue the model this year. To read more of our thoughts on the Yacht-Master II, how Rolex might improve upon it, and whether we’ll see redesign or discontinuation, read our full prediction article on the Yacht-Master II.
Image Source: Hodinkee
Inspired by Malaika Crawford’s The Plea for Proportionality, this article touches on the potential for Rolex to offer the Sea-Dweller in its traditional 40mm size alongside the existing 43mm version. If last year’s 40mm Explorer release showed us anything, it’s that Rolex is open to providing size optionality in their core collections. For more thoughts on a potential new Sea-Dweller, check out the full 40mm Sea-Dweller prediction.
While this isn’t a watch-specific prediction, it’s a broader discussion of how Rolex might release new watches this year. With more and more brands moving away from the traditional trade show release framework, Rolex stands to create their own path, and they’re already doing so. For more thoughts, check out the full 2024 Rolex release prediction article.
Much like the previous prediction, this article delves into Rolex’s divergence from the traditional trade show release schedule, highlighting their recent one-off releases aligning with events like the Oscars and Formula 1 races. For more thoughts and info on Rolex’s evolving marketing strategy, read the full article.
Finally, we asked you to submit your Rolex + Tudor predictions to blog@everestbands.com. In this article, we highlighted our three favorite community predictions, giving our input on each one. If you want to see a modern Daytona on Jubilee, check out the full community Rolex predictions article.
]]>Despite its storied history, Rolex’s Turn-O-Graph model could be considered a hidden gem in and of itself. This was Rolex’s first-ever watch to feature a rotating bezel, serving as the precursor to the iconic Submariner dive watch. Touted by Rolex in the 1950s as “the simplest stop-watch ever”, the Turn-O-Graph offers an easy solution to measure elapsed time with its 60-minute bezel, be it for cooking, parking, phone calls, etc. The Datejust Turn-O-Graph has seen three generations, all separated by years of discontinuation. The four-digit reference generation lasted from 1953 to 1959, the five-digit generation from 1977-2000, and the six-digit generation from 2004-2011.
Currently listed on Bezel for $7,690
The present example is a product of that final generation, defined by its fluted bezel and red accents via the date, seconds hand, and ‘TURN-O-GRAPH’ dial text. Equipped with Rolex’s COSC-certified caliber 3135, this dead-reliable modern Rolex is available in numerous color/material configurations, most well under $10,000. My personal favorite is this black dial variant on an Oyster bracelet. The splashes of red on black are timeless and definitively Rolex. The white gold fluted bezel elevates this otherwise-steel watch’s appearance, but is balanced out by its casual Oyster bracelet. Frankly, if I had this watch, I’d have a hard time wearing anything else. Currently available for $7,690 on Bezel, this discontinued modern Rolex is nothing short of a great deal, especially in such clean condition.
Beginning with the first ever GMT-Master reference (6542), Rolex offered their dual-timezone travel watch in a brown color configuration. As many GMT-Master variants do, the watch eventually received a soda-themed nickname: the “Root Beer”. For simplicity’s sake, I like to separate the Root Beer into two groups: the first containing four and five digit references (vintage), and the second containing six-digit references (modern). The first group contains watches with brown dials in either solid or two-tone yellow gold. You’ll see these watches equipped with all-brown or brown-and-yellow bezel inserts. The second group, which we featured on Hidden Gems a few weeks ago, contains modern “Super Case” watches with black dials in either solid or two-tone rose gold, all featuring brown-and-black ceramic bezel inserts.
Currently listed on Bezel for $11,995
The present example – a beautiful reference 16753 from the 1980s – is somewhat of a middle child from that first group. It’s not the first-ever Root Beer, but it’s not a GMT-Master II, and it’s certainly not modern. That said, it has modern creature comforts like a quickset date function, but exudes vintage charm with its all-brown 24-hour bezel and what many refer to as a “nipple dial”. Nipple dials – defined by their conical hour indices and only ever featured on select Submariner and GMT references – were phased out during this reference generation, making this particular 16753 a very special watch. Due to its skinny lugs, modest 40mm (really more like 39mm) case diameter, and majority steel surface area, this could easily be an everyday wear. Currently available on Bezel for $11,995, this watch poses some serious value as a truly collectible – and truly wearable – Rolex GMT-Master.
One year ago, almost to the day, Rolex scrapped their Cellini line of dress watches in favor of their “new” Perpetual 1908. I use the word new in jest because of the 1908’s undeniable similarities to Cellini; many posited that the watches even used the same cases. Regardless, the now-discontinued back catalog of Cellini dress watches is chock full of value, especially complicated examples with no modern counterparts. Put simply, if you want a complicated Rolex dress watch, you have no choice but to look to the past.
Currently listed on Bezel for $13,895
The Rolex Cellini Dual Time Features a 6 o’clock subdial with an entirely separate 12-hour time readout: hour hand, minute hand, and 9 o’clock day/night indicator. When setting the time, both dials are in sync, but the primary hour hand can be independently adjusted, jumping like that of a GMT-Master II (without stopping the movement). These watches are only available in precious metals: yellow, rose, or white gold. My personal favorite configuration is this white gold variant with a black dial. Given its case material and mechanical prowess, this is a pretty stealthy watch. Originally retailing for a hair under $20,000, this example, currently available on Bezel for $13,895, feels like an absolute steal.
Bezel is the top marketplace for authenticated luxury watches. While they offer a vast collection of Rolex models, from which we feature our favorites here, Bezel lists watches from over 90 brands and counting. Each and every watch sold on Bezel goes through expert in-house authentication: an invaluable resource in the secondhand watch market. You also have access to a private client advisor from the Bezel concierge team: yet another expert who can answer your questions along the way. If you’re looking for a better way to buy and sell watches, be sure to install the Bezel app, or simply visit them at getbezel.com
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In recent weeks, rumors of the Silver Snoopy's discontinuation have been creeping around the watch forums. Collectors who have expressed an interest in purchasing the watch received a mysterious email saying that the Snoopy was no longer in collection and will not be back in stock. Friends of the brand have since charioted for the brand, saying that this was an internal technological error and that there was no known intention of discontinuing the watch, but is that really the truth? It seems quite suspicious that of all the watches in OMEGA’s current collection (over 100 models), it happened to be this one model that had an error.
Yes, I know…I’m starting to sound like a conspiracy theorist, but I have my reasons to think this way. First and mostly, while OMEGA never said this would be a limited edition model, the name itself implies that the production has to be limited. The first line of the OMEGA product description reads “This 50th anniversary timepiece pays tribute to the “Silver Snoopy Award” that OMEGA received from NASA astronauts in 1970, in recognition of the brand’s contributions to space exploration, including the Apollo 13 mission.” There’s only so long you can celebrate the 50th anniversary of an event before you have to move on from it. Thinking ahead, next year will be the 55th anniversary and OMEGA will surely have another Snoopy watch up their sleeves as it has become abundantly clear that the notorious beagle can sell watches. So unfortunately, that means this current model would have to be replaced. Though I have no idea how OMEGA could top this one and I can’t wait to see.
Image Source: GQ
Don’t fear Snoopy lovers, you may not have to wait until next year to get your hands on a Snoopy x OMEGA watch. Swatch is back at it again teasing a possible MoonSwatch Snoopy collaboration, allegedly coming in the next week! I know, I know…Swatch already fooled us once by teasing a Snoopy collaboration only to launch a limited series of MoonSwatch boxed sets to be sold at auction, but this time it feels a little different. Swatch has been placing Snoopy lunar ads in newspapers around the world and even all but confirmed the rumors on their social media feed yesterday with Snoopy front and center. Is this the perfect way to celebrate the second anniversary of the MoonSwatch while reducing and ultimately stopping production of the current Silver Snoopy OMEGA? Stranger things have happened. And according to Swatch, we only have six days before we find out. One thing’s for sure, whatever comes is likely to lead to ques and chaos similar to the original MoonSwatch craze. Which means it may be a while before many of us can get our hands on one.
]]>Tudor usually, like other watch brands, changes everything in a model lineup all at once. They don’t tend to edit just one reference in a collection. That said, the burgundy Black Bay is such a unique reference in such a unique collection. It was released in 2012 to literally Beatlemania-like desire from watch collectors. To add to the mega-hype of this watch, it was originally only offered in a limited number of stores in Switzerland and the EU. This drove everyone mad with want, bringing Tudor back to the main stage of the luxury watch world literally overnight. Tudor has now made a huge comeback, as you know, and is chomping at the bit to become the #2 watch brand in the world.
Image Source: The Rake
Before spring of 2023, the Tudor Black Bay had seen a few minor updates during its decade of life, but frankly had not seen much change in aesthetics. The watch was originally offered with an ETA movement, making it somewhat thin, which really added to its appeal. But four years later in 2016, Tudor began shipping the Black Bay with their in-house caliber MT5602. This made the watch somewhat hefty, and to many, unwearable.
Image Source: Hodinkee
The great news is that Tudor got the memo last year, making all the right edits to the new M7941A1A0RU-001 and other variations. They took the design of the Black Bay Ceramic, with its thinner case and updated dimensions, and gave us Tudor guys a sleek new version in steel. Inside that slimmer case is the METAS-certified update of the outgoing model’s caliber: the MT5602-U. In a somewhat polarizing decision, they also opted for a five-link Jubilee-style bracelet. The one thing that left this writer a little shocked was that Tudor left two of the three color variations just sitting untouched!
Image Source: Redditor u/QuantumBitX
Dustin: I feel like we will see the Daytona offered on Jubilee. I don’t think we’ll see a Coke this year, but perhaps a RHD Sprite.
This is a fun one. While we haven’t seen a modern Rolex Daytona offered on a Jubilee bracelet, people have definitely made this pairing happen (as pictured above). Despite my knee-jerk reaction being one of hesitation, I quite like the combo. When I think of the Jubilee bracelet, I usually picture it paired with a fluted bezel, and while that isn’t always the case, it speaks to the design’s elegance and perception of “dressiness” (at least in my brain). While the Daytona is more-so a tool than the likes of a Datejust, for example, its modern incarnation is no less elegant or refined. I absolutely think that the modern Daytona works on Jubilee, and if last year’s gold GMT-Master II (also on Jubilee) is any indication of Rolex’s approach in years to come, we shouldn’t rule out anything as historically anomalous as a Daytona on Jubilee.
Image Source: watchclub.com
As much as I’d love to see a ‘Coke’ GMT-Master II, we could very well go another year without seeing one. If Rolex’s difficulties manufacturing red Cerachrom are as bad as people seem to think, offering a ‘Coke’ GMT in place of a ‘Pepsi’ wouldn’t make much sense. I like your RHD ‘Sprite’ prediction – this watch is well-within the realm of possibility considering the fact that its case and bezel insert are currently in production.
Image Source: Monochrome Watches
Justin: Instead of discontinuing the Pepsi, I feel like Rolex might just keep it in white gold.
While this would disappoint a lot of people, I quite like it as a prediction. In fact, I recently heard something similar from a team member here at Everest. Discontinuation rumors surrounding the ‘Pepsi’ GMT-Master II are well-chronicled at this point. In short, red Cerachrom requires a different manufacturing process from all other colors. This we know for sure: Rolex has a press release detailing their process of making bi-color Cerachrom inserts, specifically noting difficulties presented by the color red. However, it’s not like Rolex can’t make these inserts – we just don’t know how high the failure rate is. If it’s as high as is purported, reducing (if not halting) the output of ‘Pepsi’ bezel inserts would make sense. Offering the Pepsi exclusively in white gold, as Rolex did upon its 2014 revival, would be an easy way to lighten the load. If the steel Pepsi GMT disappears from the catalog, I imagine it will happen somewhat quietly.
Image Source: Monochrome Watches
Dale: I think Rolex will start using White on more dials. Tudor will start using more colours on dials and bezels and Metas will be in more timepieces.
Dale, great minds think alike! I think Rolex is due for another white dial. In my opinion, the Explorer is the perfect candidate for 2024. If you didn’t catch our prediction detailing the white dial Explorer, I suggest you give it a read. While this watch has been predicted for the past few years, 2024 feels like a strong possibility.
I completely agree with both of your Tudor predictions, and like the white dial Explorer, we’ve published related articles that talk specifics. A blue Tudor Pelagos 39 is all but an inevitability. A green comeback on the Black Bay 58 would be spectacular: maybe the dial and bezel this time. Regarding your METAS rollout prediction, I’d say it’s a safe bet. Tudor is on record (via Teddy Baldassarre’s interview with Cole Pennington) as saying “we will see the entire range become METAS-certified in due time”. I have a feeling that the Black Bay 58 is next in line, but whatever model gets the nod, there’s no doubt we’ll see a newly-METAS-certified Tudor this year.
Image Source: Rolex Forums
Rolex’s recently-renovated Explorer collection – now offered in a traditional 36mm as well as a “modern” 40mm – is the result of 13 years of tinkering. In 2010, Rolex dramatically increased the Explorer’s 36mm diameter to 39mm: the only size change in the model’s 56 years of existence. This change was very unlike Rolex. The brand is famous for their slow-and-steady approach to design evolution, especially within their core collection. In 2021, the brand effectively changed their mind, returning to a 36mm Explorer. While this flip-flop could easily be perceived as indecision, it was more so a result of industry trends (which, to be fair, Rolex doesn’t usually fall victim to). The 2000s and 2010s will undoubtedly go down as “the big watch era” thanks to brands like Panerai and Hublot. However, trend or not, the big watch era isn’t over: at least amongst buyers. By introducing a 40mm Explorer alongside the 36mm version, Rolex showed us that real markets exist for both sizes.
With the modern Sea-Dweller, Rolex could skip the line, so to speak. Learning from their 13 years of back-and-forth with the Explorer’s sizing, they may as well just introduce a traditional 40mm Sea-Dweller alongside the current 43mm version. Before you say it in the comments – yes – this would be a move in the opposite direction as the Explorer. Why would Rolex decrease the size of the Sea-Dweller if they chose to increase the size of the Explorer? At the end of the day, all paths lead to optionality, and as Malaika Crawford points out, proportionality. By offering multiple sizes within one model, brands not only make watches accessible to more people, they save themselves the time, money, and effort associated with aligning diameters to the “en vogue” size of the moment.
Image Source: Monochrome Watches
I truly don’t think much will change here, nor do I want it to. The ref. 126600 pays homage to the Sea-Dweller’s history with its eye-catching red text. It integrates Rolex’s modern design elements like the Cerachrom bezel, super case, and maxi dial proportions without presenting as a whole different watch. It marries the iconic cyclops lens with one of the Rolex's beloved models. Sure, I’d love to see a return to the slimmer lugs, smaller indices, and an aluminum bezel, but that's obviously out of the question (and what Hidden Gems is for). Aside from a 40mm case, proportionally-sized dial furniture (I’ll leave those specifics to IDGuy), and the obligatory mechanical upgrade from the caliber 3235, a new 40mm Sea-Dweller shouldn’t change that much.
Rolex Sea-Dweller 126600 on Curved-End Rubber Strap
As I’ve written upwards of 20 times since February, no one knows what Rolex will release this year. More accurately, no one ever knows what Rolex will release at any given time. Secrecy is their superpower and they’re really (really) good at it. Don’t believe the “leaks”: they happen every year and they're never real. Whether or not a 40mm Sea-Dweller comes out this year, you won’t be able to get one. The point of this article isn’t to guess a release date, but to observe and question Rolex’s release strategy. Their decision to offer the Explorer in two sizes is a historically-significant one. I find it hard to believe that this sort of optionality will start and end with the Explorer. A 40mm Sea-Dweller is a great opportunity to capitalize on this approach, and I hope to see one this spring in Geneva.
Header Image Source: Hodinkee
]]>I’d like to kick things off with a quote from Wei Koh’s 2019 interview with Ben Clymer. When discussing the design of Hodinkee’s limited edition collaboration with Nomos on their Metro Chronometer, Clymer says, “It was an existing watch. We killed the date. . . just because. People hate dates, I don’t know why”. This made me laugh not because I hate dates myself, but because I share this general awareness of “date hate” and simultaneous confusion as to why it exists. Funnier still is the response of Wei Koh, founder of Revolution Magazine and collaborative watch designer in his own right: “It’s so funny that you say that; it’s the first thing I do as well”. Clearly, the idea of favoring no-date watches is widespread and well-known, at least amongst enthusiasts. In fact, it’s so prolific that both Koh and Clymer opt for scrapping the date when catering to their own audiences. My question to the date-haters would be, do you really prefer no date across the board?
Image Source: Langepedia
Don’t get me wrong: I strongly dislike a handful of date placements. The new Breguet Type XX comes to mind, the revised Seiko SPB143 comes to mind (a revision made because of a date window in the first place), certain El Primero references come to mind – just to name a few. Some date placements are more elegant than others, but each should be considered on a watch-to-watch basis. Just look at the Lange 1 – without a date readout, this dial would look completely naked. In fact, look at any A. Lange & Söhne with a date from 1994 onward. The iconic “outsize” date readout makes Lange watches recognizable from across the room: a feat that few watchmakers have ever accomplished (with elegance and consistency). That said, the date complication is central to the Lange 1’s dial design. This isn’t the case with many watches, including the Rolex Submariner: a dive watch whose initial design forewent all impediments to the simple legibility of time.
Image Source: swisswatches-magazine.com
If you’re in the market for a Submariner, don’t let outside noise determine whether or not you want a date complication; buy the one you love and are excited to wear. That said, arguments from either camp are worth considering. First, and something I already touched on, is the model’s history. Before the Rolex Submariner was an everyday icon, it was a tool for professional divers: a means for timing dives, calculating decompression intervals, etc. The dial’s simple bold indices, white-on-black contrast, and luminescent paint were (and still are) used to maintain legibility at the deepest depths. For this hyper-specific application, albeit the application the watch was designed for, a date window is almost laughable. If you’re concerned with the date 200 meters underwater, you should probably shift your concern toward your oxygen supply. Purists will point to this as reason alone to choose the Submariner over the Submariner Date; it’s the “pure” representation of the watch. I don’t align with this thinking. Others point to the Submariner Date’s asymmetry as its fatal flaw, with the date window replacing the 3 o’clock hour index. While this asymmetry doesn’t bother me personally, I understand this point of view. Once a dial element irks you, it’s hard to unsee.
Image Source: Analog Shift
If so many people hate the date, why did Rolex ever include one on the Submariner? Well, as anyone in watch retail will tell you, the vast majority of people want a date on their watch. Those who aren’t taking the Submariner diving – that “vast majority” I just mentioned – appreciate the ability to check the date at a glance. Furthermore, divers don’t live underwater. Part of the Submariner’s appeal is its wearability above sea level. In fact, a whole genre of watches – skin divers – were created in the mid-20th century for non-divers who thought divers’ watches looked badass. Just because a date window is somewhat antithetical to diving doesn’t mean it’s not a massive selling point. Speaking of selling points, Submariner Date models feature Rolex’s iconic cyclops lens – another recognizable-across-the-room design element that some people love, myself included. To be fair, the cyclops lens could fall on either side of the date debate: it’s a pretty polarizing feature.
Those who point out historical discrepancies with the phrase “No-Date Submariner” belong to a very small group. Similarly, those campaigning for no-date versions of every watch belong to a very small group, likely overlapping with the first. An overwhelming majority of watch buyers simply don’t care and/or like having the date on their wrist. Now, that doesn’t mean that there aren’t some god-awful date placements out there – those definitely exist and finding them is part of the fun.
Image Source: Rolex Forums
In short, I urge you not to subscribe to any rules when it comes to buying and/or appreciating watches. It’s easy to emulate preferences you hear online, especially in this small bubble we call watch enthusiasm. Niche opinions like favoring no-date watches (or turning your nose up at >40mm watches) may appear to be the norm, when in reality, they’re held by a small minority. Regardless, your opinion is the only one that matters. Of course, it’s best to be informed when creating one, be it with historical context, demand, etc., but adopting someone else’s is a fools errand. Let us know in the comments below: when it comes to the Submariner, do you prefer a date?
]]>In the world of luxury watches, Rolex has long been synonymous with prestige, craftsmanship, and timeless elegance. With a rich history spanning over a century, the brand has consistently set the standard for quality and innovation in horology. However, in recent years, Rolex has been shaking things up with a new marketing strategy that involves unveiling new models at high-profile events like the Oscars and Le Mans. This approach has sparked intrigue and speculation among watch enthusiasts worldwide: Will we see more event drops from Rolex in the future?
Image: Hodinkee
Rolex's presence at events like the Oscars and Le Mans is not merely coincidental; it's a strategic move aimed at capturing the attention of a wider audience and reinforcing the brand's image as a symbol of success and achievement. By unveiling new models at these glamorous gatherings, Rolex not only generates buzz within the watch community but also taps into the cultural zeitgeist, aligning itself with the world of fashion, film, and sports.
The decision to introduce new watches at such prestigious events is a departure from Rolex's traditional marketing playbook, which typically involves unveiling new models at industry trade shows like Watches and Wonders. However, with the rise of social media and digital marketing, Rolex has recognized the importance of reaching consumers directly and creating memorable experiences that resonate on a global scale.
Image: Rolex Newsroom
The success of Rolex's event drops can be attributed to several factors. Firstly, by associating new watch releases with high-profile occasions, Rolex capitalizes on the media coverage and celebrity endorsements that accompany these events, thereby maximizing exposure and generating excitement among consumers. Additionally, unveiling new models at events like the Oscars adds an element of exclusivity and glamour, further enhancing the desirability of Rolex watches among discerning collectors.
Image: Rolex Newsroom
Following the resounding success of the Le Mans Daytona release, which garnered widespread acclaim and sold out within minutes, there's speculation among watch aficionados about the possibility of Rolex unveiling a special edition timepiece at Formula 1 events in the future.
Image: Rolex Newsroom
Given the synergy between Rolex's commitment to precision engineering and the adrenaline-fueled world of motorsports, an F1 event release would undoubtedly generate immense excitement and anticipation among fans worldwide. With Rolex's track record of delivering exceptional craftsmanship and performance, such an event would not only celebrate the brand's enduring legacy but also showcase its continued relevance in the fast-paced world of motorsports.
But beyond the glitz and glamour of event drops, Rolex's new marketing strategy reflects a broader shift in the luxury industry towards experiential marketing and direct-to-consumer engagement. In an era where consumers crave authenticity and meaningful connections with brands, Rolex's decision to eschew traditional advertising in favor of immersive experiences speaks to the evolving nature of luxury consumption.
While we prefer predictions revolving around the three aforementioned brands (Rolex, Tudor, Patek Philippe), feel free to submit other brands, general industry trends, or anything else you think is worth highlighting. We’d like to use your words verbatim, so it’s time to flex your writing muscles. Every prediction will be credited on a first name basis – no need to send your full name if you don’t want to. A pseudonym would be fine, as well.
I’m looking forward to reading your predictions! Again, just email them to blog@everestbands.com and be on the lookout for a “Community Predictions” article within the next week or two. To make sure you don’t miss it, feel free to subscribe to our email list at the very bottom of this page.
]]>If you’re reading this article, you’re likely familiar with the quartz crisis, but I’ll provide a quick recap just in case. In the late ‘60s and early ‘70s, the advent of battery-powered quartz watches rendered the less-accurate, more expensive, mechanical alternatives somewhat obsolete. This greatly impacted the watch industry and, as a result, the Swiss economy took a huge hit. Naturally, Swiss watchmakers banded together to save their storied industry, an effort that eventually led to the creation of the Swatch group. This effort also resulted in the first Swiss-made quartz movement: the Beta 21. Alongside 19 other Swiss brands, Rolex released a short-run of watches utilizing the Beta 21 movement: the Rolex Reference 5100, nicknamed the “Texan”. No more than 2,000 of these Beta-21-powered watches were made, and in typical Rolex fashion, they later opted for an in-house alternative. Enter the Rolex Oysterquartz.
Currently listed on Bezel for $4,985
Rolex’s in-house Oysterquartz watches come in two flavors: Datejust and Day-Date. Featuring an integrated bracelet design – something we haven’t seen from Rolex since – these watches have a distinctly ‘70s vibe while maintaining the Crown’s timeless design elements. Available in numerous configurations (case material, dial color, fluted or smooth bezel), the Rolex Oysterquartz is a true piece of horological history that can be had for less than $5,000 (depending on configuration). Currently, there is a two-tone Datejust Oysterquartz with a fluted bezel available on Bezel for just $4,985. At 36mm in diameter, this watch is versatile and understated without being boring. A true enthusiast’s pick, the quirky Oysterquartz represents good value in the preowned Rolex market.
Speaking of enthusiast picks, the Rolex Submariner ref. 14060 is, to many, the quintessential 5-digit Rolex. The Submariner itself should need no introduction: it’s perhaps the most iconic watch of all time. Released in 1990 and manufactured through 2010, the Rolex Submariner ref. 14060 (and later in that range, 14060M) is the last Submariner without a date before the modern era (Super Case, Maxi Dial, ceramic bezel). What does this mean? Well, you get all the charm of a vintage Submariner without the expensive pitfalls of a truly vintage Submariner. The 14060 has an aluminum bezel, skinnier drilled lugs, and a beautifully-proportioned dateless dial all within a 40mm case. The caliber 3000 inside, being a modern Rolex movement, is readily-serviceable, accurate, and dead-reliable. If you love the look of this watch but want the best movement possible, the 14060M features near-identical aesthetics (one minor dial change) and a COSC-Certified caliber 3130, featuring a balance bridge and Breguet overcoil: technical improvements over the aforementioned caliber 3000.
Currently listed on Bezel for $7,495
For my money, the Rolex Submariner ref. 14060 (and 14060M) represents insane value at well under $10,000. If I were in the market for a Submariner, these references are where I’d look first. Currently listed on Bezel is a Submariner ref. 14060 for just $7,495. If you’d like to step up to the 14060M, the least expensive example on Bezel can be had for just $8,595. While these watches are categorically icons, and treated as such amongst enthusiasts, the pricing indicates to me that they’re still hidden gems in the broader watch market.
If you frequent the Everest Journal, you may know about my affinity for this watch. Offered only in 31mm (for now), Rolex’s trio of Floral-Motif Datejusts feature gem-set dials depicting 24 flowers: 8 feature a sunray finish, 8 matte, and 8 grained. If your palms got sweaty when you read the word “gem-set”, don’t worry. With a small (like, very small) diamond set at the center of each flower, I truly think this is one of the most artful and discrete examples of a gem-set Rolex. The present configuration – steel and white gold Rolesor, blue floral dial, fluted bezel – is the most understated of the bunch, with others featuring yellow and rose gold, diamond bezels, etc. Given the size, floral motif, and gem setting, this product is clearly geared toward the ladies’ market, but as we’re seeing watch brands and consumers alike drop the labels and shift toward a more androgynous approach, you should never inhibit your choice of watch based on labels. Do you like the way it looks? Do you like the way it wears? It might be a match!
Image (left) Courtesy of Rolex. Image (right) Currently listed on Bezel for $12,775
As pointed out to me by Ryan Chong, Head of Watch Operations at Bezel, “there aren't too many examples in pre-owned condition available of this model as most are being happily worn”. On the secondary market for this watch, you’ll largely find unworn examples listed far above retail, sometimes approaching $20,000. Because it’s a current-production Rolex, you won’t find an example at or below retail, but as of publishing, there’s a pre-owned example available on Bezel for just $12,775. This is a great opportunity to get into this watch.
Bezel is the top marketplace for authenticated luxury watches. While they offer a vast collection of Rolex models, from which we feature our favorites here, Bezel lists watches from over 90 brands and counting. Each and every watch sold on Bezel goes through expert in-house authentication: an invaluable resource in the secondhand watch market. You also have access to a private client advisor from the Bezel concierge team: yet another expert who can answer your questions along the way. If you’re looking for a better way to buy and sell watches, be sure to install the Bezel app, or simply visit them at getbezel.com
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Image Source: analogshift.com
Released in 1954, the long-discontinued Tudor Submariner is celebrating its 70th anniversary this year. Given Tudor’s modern catalog – largely based on two distinct dive watches in the Black Bay and Pelagos – the prospect of a Submariner revival feels a bit far-fetched. After all, the aforementioned modern Tudor divers successfully relinquished Tudor’s reliance on the Submariner pre-21st century. While Tudor could very well skip over this anniversary, they could also celebrate it under the Black Bay umbrella. Tim Mosso of the 1916 Company posits that we might see a limited “Submariner Edition” Black Bay 54: a watch largely based on the first-ever Tudor Submariner ref. 7922. I quite like this prediction, but with every modern Black Bay release, we have to consider the inevitable upgrade to METAS Certification. Frankly, it feels a bit early in the Black Bay 54’s life cycle to implement this type of upgrade, but that wouldn’t eliminate the possibility of an LE. As with every “prediction” on this list, we’ll just have to wait and see what Tudor and Rolex have in store.
Image Source: analogshift.com
Whereas the idea of a Tudor Submariner purely speculative, the Tudor Black Bay 58 has some imminent upgrades that, if they don’t arrive in 2024, will feel overdue. First and foremost, the Black Bay 58 bracelet is still without a microadjustable T-fit clasp. As mentioned in our prediction article, Tudor’s Cole Pennington stated in an interview that, regarding the addition of T-Fit clasp to existing Black Bay models, “we’ll get there”. Even if this isn’t the case for more obscure models like the Black Bay P01, I’m all but certain that the Black Bay 58 will receive this upgrade.
In the same interview, Cole Pennington stated that, eventually, “we will see the entire [Black Bay] range become METAS-certified”. Last year, we saw the core Black Bay 41mm receive a movement upgrade and case rehaul fit with METAS certification. As one of Tudor’s best-sellers, if not the best seller, the Black Bay 58 should be next in line for the Master Chronometer treatment. I predict that we will see this upgrade coincide with a T-fit clasp.
This one is my personal favorite. Since the release of the Tudor Pelagos 39 – Tudor’s amply-sized “ultimate modern diver” in black – people have talked about a blue version. While I like the idea of a blue Pelagos 39, I would love it under one particular condition. The current Pelagos 39 has a sunray-finished dial and bezel, creating light reflections that, to purists, are antithetical to the hyper-legible nature of a dive watch. While I think this stance is a bit nitpicky, I do agree that a matte blue Pelagos 39 – dial and bezel – would be the best way to go about it. For reference, imagine the finish on the blue version of the core Pelagos model. This watch would surely be a knockout, and I think it’s plausible that we see it at Watches and Wonders 2024. Who knows, a blue Pelagos 39 could even be Tudor’s way of celebrating the Submariner’s anniversary; blue configurations of vintage Tudor Subs have only been increasing in collectibility.
Image Source: Tudor
Tudor first released the Black Bay Chrono in 2017. Four years later, the watch was updated with slimmer dimensions and new dial variations. Mechanically, this watch has stayed the same since its initial launch, and frankly, no one is complaining. The Black Bay Chrono houses an impressive movement based on the Breitling caliber B01. The column wheel movement is the same used in Breitling’s more-expensive Navitimer and Chronomat. However, with Tudor’s push to Kennisi-fy their catalog, an in-house chronograph isn’t a matter of if, but when. Last year, we saw a one-off Kenissi chronograph movement housed in a gold Tudor “Big Block”: the brand’s 2023 OnlyWatch submission. This indicates that Kenissi, Tudor’s in-house movement manufacturer that also serves other brands (e.g. Chanel, Breitling, TAG Heuer, Norquain), has chronograph mechanics on their mind. While we’re still hot on the heels of the in-house Big Block, 2024 could be the year we see a mechanically-refreshed Tudor Black Bay Chrono.
While some may argue that a green Black Bay 54/58 would be “following the crowd” after the overwhelming amount of green sports watches released in recent years (of which the Seamaster 300M is my favorite, for the record), K. Wells argues that it would reflect positively on Tudor, showing that they’re in-tune with the desires of enthusiasts. K. Wells also makes clear the oft-forgotten truth that brands largely don’t care what enthusiasts want: enthusiasts make up a very small percentage of actual buyers. Still, we know that green works with the Black Bay silhouette: just look at the 2016 Harrods Edition Black Bay. Regardless of your feelings about the “green watch trend”, you have to admit that a green Black Bay 58 would break the horological internet for at least a week. Will we see one in 2024? Again, I don’t know with any certainty. And again, this could be Tudor’s way of celebrating the Submariner’s anniversary. After all, green is Rolex’s definitive anniversary color.
Tudor’s dual-timezone watches – the Black Bay GMT and Black Bay Pro – share a movement: the in-house Tudor caliber MT5652. While this is a wonderful movement and I’d recommend either of these watches in a heartbeat, they both share one primary complaint. Both of Tudor’s dual-timezone watches are considerably thick: both a hair under 15mm. This thickness is heightened by either watch’s slab-sided case design, and it’s heightened further by the BB Pro’s 39mm diameter. Much like an updated chronograph movement is inevitable, an updated GMT movement is inevitable; it’s not a matter of if, but when. Whenever this update does occur, I expect the movement to be thinner and both watch’s case heights to be thinner. Beyond movements, I expect the Black Bay GMT to adopt a T-fit clasp, something that the Black Bay Pro already has.
There you have it, folks. These are our “predictions”, more accurately our “wishlist”, regarding Tudor’s 2024 releases. This article will be updated with any future predictions we make, but beyond that, stay tuned for our in-person coverage at Watches and Wonders Geneva 2024.
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Image Source: Hodinkee
Beyond aesthetics and enthusiast demand (which shouldn’t be discounted), one concrete reason for Rolex to produce a white dial Explorer I has to do with the model’s history. The watch that accompanied Sir Edmund Hillary on the first-ever summit of Mt. Everest – the “pre-Explorer” ref. 6352 – has a white dial. Although most people couldn’t care less about Rolex’s involvement in this summit (myself included), Rolex certainly does. If you visit the Explorer I’s product page, your browser will trudge through an onslaught of large images depicting Sir Edmund Hillary’s summit, Mt. Everest, and all things related. This story is integral to the Explorer's identity. While Rolex would never do a 1:1 reissue of the ref. 6352 – with its triangular indices, chapter ring dial, circular 12 o’clock lume plot, etc – a white dial Explorer would be a subtle nod to the model’s roots without sacrificing mass appeal.
That said, Rolex knows better than I that the pre-Explorer has a white dial, and they have for more than 70 years. If we haven’t seen a “Polar” Explorer I thus far, why would we see one in 2024?
Since the Rolex Explorer’s 1954 release, the model has maintained its diameter of 36mm. That is, until 2010, (the midst of the large watch era) when Rolex upped the Explorer’s size to 39mm. This size lived on for 11 years until Rolex reverted the Explorer to 36mm. Finally, in 2023, Rolex settled on offering the Explorer in two sizes: a historically-accurate 36mm and a larger 40mm. With the Explorer's case dimensions out of flux, the model feels, for lack of a better term, resolved. With sizing squared away, Rolex has more leeway to experiment with their mostly-untouched Explorer silhouette. Just look at last year’s two-tone Explorer 36: the last release anyone expected from The Crown.
With years and years of unfulfilled speculation, a ‘Polar’ Rolex Explorer I feels more out-of-reach than it might actually be. Not only would this watch serve the history of the Explorer's design, it would serve the new era of Explorer, existing in a broad collection of sizes, dial colors, and materials. While your guess is as good as mine regarding the likelihood of this release, I certainly think we could see a white-dial Explorer I at Watches and Wonders 2024. Like last year’s two-tone model, I expect this variation to roll out in just one size. Knowing Rolex and their propensity to give enthusiasts a watch one degree removed from what they actually want, I predict that, if we see a white-dial Explorer I this year, it will come in 40mm.
Header Image Source: Monochrome Watches
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Image Source: Wind Vintage
Perhaps the most famous picture of Picasso wearing a wristwatch is the one above, circa 1960s. Wearing a Native American headdress – gifted to him by Gary Cooper – Picasso leans his head on his left hand, displaying a Rolex GMT-Master ref. 6542. As the first GMT-Master reference ever created, this is a very valuable watch. Of course, the provenance of Picasso’s ownership makes this particular example even more valuable. Further adding to this watch’s value is its unknown location. That’s right – the whereabouts of the GMT-Master pictured are unknown. Needless to say, Picasso’s undiscovered Rolex is a holy grail of watch collecting. Time will tell if it’s ever discovered.
Image Source: Hodinkee
Beyond what we can gather from the above photo, little is known about Picasso’s Patek Philippe ref. 2497. Among the storied brand’s first serially-produced perpetual calendars, the ref. 2497 was the first to feature a central seconds hand. It’s among the rarest Patek Philippe references in the world with only 115 examples produced. Because the photo is black and white, we can’t discern the watch’s case material. While it’s most likely yellow gold, it could be pink gold, white gold, or even platinum. From my understanding, ~20 pink gold examples are known, and even fewer of white metals. Depending on its case material, Picasso’s Patek Philippe ref. 2497 could break records at auction, much like his artwork does regularly. Of course, the watch will have to be discovered and consigned for that to ever happen.
Image Source: GQ UK
Photographed by Armenian-Canadian photographer Yousuf Karsh, Picasso is seen wearing a 1940s Jaeger-LeCoultre Triple Calendar watch. While there’s not enough detail in the photo to pinpoint a reference, the brand and era can be identified by the watch’s distinctive 6 o’clock moonphase aperture, large applied arabic numerals at 12, 6, and 9 o’clock, date ring around the dial, and teardrop lugs. Clearly, Picasso had a fascination with complicated Swiss watches. Yet another undiscovered example, this JLC Triple Calendar proves that Picasso (or someone close to him) had very good taste in watches.
Image Source: Francois Guillot
This pair of 32mm dress watches, one in steel and one in gold, were created by Michael Z. Berger as gifts to Picasso in the 1960s. Picasso’s first and last name total 12 letters, making for the perfect set of personalized “numerals” on a watch dial. Both Berger watches were gifted to Picasso’s personal driver in the late ‘60s or early ‘70s. The steel example sold at auction in 2021, reaching a hammer price 20x that of the pre-sale estimate: $270,000. The gold example is ostensibly still in possession of Picasso’s driver, but could grace the auction houses at any time.
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Image Source: Revolution Watch
While this watch dates back to 1925, the movement inside – Patek Philippe’s caliber 97975 – was created for a women’s pendant watch in 1898. Unfortunately for Patek Philippe at the time, but fortunately for the course of horological history, the pendant never sold. The movement was recased into a hand-carved 34.4mm golden thing of beauty. In 1927, the watch sold to an American client and sits today in the Patek Philippe museum. The size of this movement and, in turn, the watch is frankly remarkable. Still today, major luxury watch brands struggle to create truly-wearable QPs. Patek Philippe knocked it out of the park on the first go. The 97975 marks the beginning of an era in which Patek Philippe would release icon after complicated icon, all beautifully-proportioned, the most desirable of which touting a perpetual calendar complication.
Image Source: SJX Watches
Soon after the fall of the Berlin Wall, Walter Lange – great-grandson of revolutionary watchmaker Ferdinand Adolf Lange – revived his family’s storied brand in Glashütte, Germany. In 1994, just 5 years after this catalytic event, A. Lange & Sohne released four remarkable offerings to the public: the Lange 1, Arkade, Saxonia, and Tourbillon “Pour le Mérit”. With its scrupulous “golden ratio” dial arrangement, the Lange 1 is a masterclass in asymmetric design – it is one of few true modern horological icons. In 2012, A. Lange & Sohne introduced a Tourbillon Perpetual Calendar iteration of the Lange 1. For my money, this is the most magnificent watch ever made from the German brand.
Image Source: Monochrome Watches
The Lange 1 was not designed to display this much information. By introducing a perpetual calendar complication, ALS had to rethink the Lange 1’s dial layout which, as I mentioned earlier, was designed with a painful amount of intent. Somehow, they achieved a similarly-perfect dial design with the QP. Around the entire perimeter of the dial, you’ll see a rotating ring that indicates the month. Looking inside that ring, you’ll notice that the dial was completely mirrored. The hour and minute readout is now at 3 o’clock, the “outsize” date is now on the left side, the power reserve indicator was refashioned as a day complication and placed at 9 o’clock, there’s a brand new aperture at 6 o’clock indicating the leap year, the small seconds has a moonphase, and oh – there’s a tourbillon behind the dial. *Deep breath*. If this watch doesn’t get you hot and bothered, I don’t know what will.
Image Source: Hodinkee
Max Busser is the microtechnology engineer, businessman, and creative genius behind MB&F. What many don’t know about him is that he has no formal training as a watchmaker. As he explicitly said in his episode of Hodinkee’s Talking Watches: “I am not a watchmaker”. So who is behind this perpetual calendar of the future? That would be Irish watchmaker Stephen McDonnell: a person who, much like Mr. Busser, has no formal training as a watchmaker. This perpetual calendar was designed from first principles: doing away with foundational techniques established hundreds of years ago. Of all the mechanical marvels I could highlight from MB&F’s Legacy Machine Perpetual, I’d like to highlight one that acts as a form of defense from its wearer. Perpetual calendars have what’s sometimes referred to as “danger zones”: periods of time in the middle of the night in which the calendar moves on its own accord and can be damaged if it receives user input. McDonnell’s entirely-rethought QP design makes so-called “danger zones” a thing of the past. During those hours, all calendar functions lock up, preventing the user from manipulating the movement and potentially damaging the watch. To my knowledge, this is the first and only perpetual calendar watch to do something like this.
Beyond this first-of-its-kind locking mechanism, the MB&F Legacy Machine Perpetual is an absolute stunner. The bi-legged balance bridge frames the hour-and-minutes dial, looking almost like the collar of a jacket framing someone’s head. The central balance wheel is visible from the dial-side while the escapement is not. This is the first “split escapement” movement ever created: a novelty in this centuries-old craft. I could go on and on about the Legacy Machine Perpetual, but just know that it’s a QP like no other. This is the ultimate modern iteration of this historic complication.
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Image Source: Tudor
With movement talk out of the way, what could an updated, slimmer Black Bay GMT look like? First and foremost, the watch is due for a T-fit clasp, and it's not alone (*cough* Black Bay 58 *cough*). In a 2023 interview with Teddy Baldassare, Tudor’s Cole Pennington (formerly of Hodinkee) indicated that T-fit will eventually find its way to every Black Bay bracelet. A new generation of Black Bay GMT without T-fit would be a confounding disappointment. Beyond that, I suspect Tudor will do away with the Black Bay GMT’s crown tube: something we saw them do with the core Black Bay and 31/36/39/41 models. Personally, I like the crown tube, but it seems to be on the outs. Last year’s opaline dial answered the prayers of Rolex nerds worldwide; I hope to see this dial carry over to future iterations of the Black Bay GMT. I don’t suspect we’ll see new bezel colorways anytime soon, but just imagine a slimmed-down, METAS-certified ‘Coke’ Black Bay GMT. That watch would break the internet.
Image Source: Hodinkee
The Black Bay Pro has a T-fit clasp, tubeless crown, and colorless steel bezel. Aside from a slimmer case profile, how can Tudor iterate upon this design? To me, they nailed it and shouldn’t change a thing, but that’s not very exciting. A polar white dial, something that Vincent Deschamps speculated on last year, would be sensational. Since 2018, it’s hard to tell where Rolex draws the line with Tudor’s design borrowings. A Tudor Black Bay Pro ‘Polar’ would certainly encroach on the sales of the Rolex Explorer II ‘Polar’, but if Rolex greenlit the ‘Pepsi’ Black Bay GMT (directly modeled after the ‘Pepsi’ GMT-Master), who’s to determine the limits here? The simple answer is Rolex: that’s why “prediction” articles should more realistically be called “wishlist” articles. Whatever Rolex/Tudor’s reasoning for or against a polar dial might be, the colorway would be a perfect introduction to a slimmed-down generation of the Black Bay Pro.
I have no scientific way to gauge the likelihood of these things happening, especially within a specific year. That said, Tudor will, at some point, update their in-house GMT movement. Marking the movement’s 6th birthday, a 2024 update is definitely in the cards. A new in-house GMT movement will certainly be slimmer, eventually finding its way into both the Black Bay GMT and Black Bay Pro. Any updated versions of these watches will be thinner than the current versions. If they aren’t updated at the same time, I suspect the Black Bay GMT will receive the nod from Tudor as it’s four years older than the Black Bay Pro. With 2024 being the 70th anniversary of the Rolex GMT-Master, we could see another coordinated GMT release from Rolex and Tudor. Who knows, it might even tide over ravenous watch enthusiasts until Tudor updates the Black Bay Pro. What do you think Tudor will do this year? Let us know in the comments below.
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Image Source: hodinkee.com
The Yacht-Master II features a “regatta chronograph” complication: a countdown timer set in one-minute increments up to ten. The timer’s intended use is to count down the minutes before the starting gun of a yacht race (also known as a regatta). However, the regatta chronograph can also count down the minutes before your next set at the gym, taking dinner out of the oven, or announcing to the room that you are, in fact, wearing a Yacht-Master II. The complication is set using a Ring Command Bezel: Rolex’s mechanically-integrated rotating bezel also seen on the Sky-Dweller. Without question, the Yacht-Master II is one of Rolex’s most complex watches, even today. Aside from its unique movement and functionality, the watch sets itself apart via its aesthetics.
Image Source: petitegeneve.com
There are no two ways around it – the Yacht-Master II is huge. At 44mm across, 14mm thick, and 50mm from lug tip to lug tip, this is the largest Rolex watch outside of the Deepsea collection. Within those dimensions, the Yacht-Master II exhibits a quirky layout like none other. The regatta chronograph’s readout is entirely redundant: numbers 1-10 are included on both the dial and bezel, taking up much of the watch’s visual real estate. Taking up even more of this real estate is the bezel’s large “YACHT-MASTER II” text: something I’m confident Rolex would never put on a watch today. With the exception of the platinum-bezeled white gold configuration (worn by Aaron B. of Bachelor Nation fame), the Yacht-Master II is equipped with a bright blue ceramic bezel insert: a color that plays nicely with red accents atop a bright white dial.
Image Source: md-watches.com
The Yacht-Master II was released during an interesting time in horology. The late 2000s and early 2010s mark the era of the oversized watch thanks to brands like Panerai and Hublot. The Yacht-Master II is certainly emblematic of this time. It’s safe to say that, in the eyes of modern consumers (beyond just enthusiasts, in my opinion), the Yacht-Master II could most easily be improved by a size reduction. The watch’s current caliber 4161 is no larger in diameter than its base caliber 4130 (the outgoing Daytona movement): just 30mm. In other words, the Yacht-Master II’s large size is not a result of its complex mechanics, it’s a design choice. If we see an updated Yacht-Master II, I’m confident that we’ll see it in a smaller case (even if just slightly), with a movement based on the new caliber 4131.
Another potential improvement for the Yacht-Master II would be an Oysterflex bracelet. Given the Oysterflex’s popularity and adoption in similar product lines (Yacht-Master, Sky-Dweller), I suspect that Rolex would implement it in a potential future Yacht-Master II.
In last year’s round of predictions, I wrote “As far as the Yacht-Master II goes, discontinuation feels just as likely as an update”. The year before that, Everest predicted that the Yacht-Master II would be discontinued. I highlight past years not to double down or solidify any one position; nobody knows what Rolex will or won’t do and I’ll be the first to admit that. I highlight these past predictions to show that, for years now, the longevity of the Yacht-Master II line has been in question. While the watch holds plenty of potential for a redesign (I mean, just imagine a 40-42mm Yacht-Master II on Oysterflex), it could very well be discontinued like last year’s Milgauss. As with all “predictions”, only time will tell what Rolex actually chooses to do.
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Cast your mind back to 2016. The world hadn’t learned of Covid yet, watches were still a weird little hobby you couldn't talk about with anyone else, and you could even walk into a Rolex dealer and get a Submariner without waiting (and with a little discount too). It was also the year that Tudor dropped jaws with the Harrods Edition Black Bay. This limited-edition stunner flaunted a mesmerizing green bezel and dial, setting hearts racing among watch collectors. It wasn't just a watch; it was a statement, a symbol of Tudor's daring to break the mold. The success of the Harrods Edition laid the groundwork for Tudor to explore more green-themed timepieces, hinting at what might be in store for us now.
So, why green, you might ask? Well, let's look at the trends and Tudor's own success stories. The Black Bay 54, introduced just last year, has been a smash hit. Its classic design and versatility have won over the hearts of many in the watch community. Adding a green variant to the lineup? That's just taking it to the next level. And let's not forget the broader horological landscape. Green dials and bezels have been all the rage lately. It seems like every brand wants in on the action, and Tudor is no exception. By jumping on this trend, Tudor isn't just following the crowd; they're showing they're in tune with what enthusiasts crave. (A quick disclaimer, I don’t think that most brands actually care what enthusiasts are asking for, but it’s nice to dream about designers for our favorite brands sitting in watch forums, reading our comments, and designing the products we ask for.)
Image Source Watchcollecting.com
Now, onto the Black Bay 58. This watch has its own legion of fans, drawn to its vintage vibe and timeless appeal. Imagine that same charm, but with a splash of green. It's a recipe for success, offering something fresh for collectors while staying true to what makes the Black Bay 58 special. Given the brand's penchant for elegance and sophistication, it's not far-fetched to imagine them choosing a rich, earthy tone like olive green. Picture it: a dial and bezel adorned in a luscious olive hue, evoking the lush landscapes of the English countryside. Pair that with a gilt dial, adding a touch of vintage charm and warmth to the ensemble. This combination would strike the perfect balance between classic and contemporary, appealing to both traditionalists and modern enthusiasts alike. The subtle sheen of the gilt dial would complement the richness of the olive green, creating a harmonious visual feast for the eyes. If Tudor decides to go down this route, we're in for a treat indeed.
As we eagerly await Watches and Wonders 2024, the speculation around Tudor's green dial/green bezel Black Bay 58 and 54 is reaching fever pitch. From the brand's history with green to the current market trends, everything seems to point towards something truly exciting on the horizon. These potential releases aren't just watches; they're statements of style and innovation. So, buckle up, fellow enthusiasts. The ride is about to get a whole lot greener, and we couldn't be more thrilled!
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As inscribed on the caseback, it was given to Anton Nielsen (my great-great-grandfather) by Hammermill Paper Company (his employer) in recognition of 20 years of faithful service. The watch is in great condition: my grandfather rarely wore it and, within the past 10 years, he had the movement overhauled and serviced. The vertically-brushed dial looks great, the crystal is without any deep scratches or cracks, and to the best of my knowledge, no parts (with the exception of a mainspring, I imagine) have been replaced. So, why in the world would I modify this watch in any way shape or form? Modifying an heirloom watch is almost always considered a sin, at least amongst enthusiasts. Well, before you start furiously typing, allow me to explain.
I won’t bore you with too long of a history lesson, but I can’t skip over what makes early-mid-century Hamilton watches so special. Hamilton Watch Company played a huge role in US railroad expansion. This was really the basis of their success approaching the 20th century: creating robust, accurate pocket watches to time the departure and arrival of trains. Into the 20th century, Hamilton expanded by creating consumer-driven wristwatches. Because of their background manufacturing railroad chronometers, these little everyday watches were incredibly well-made and dead-reliable. Some refer to pre-Swatch Hamilton as “the American Patek” (I won’t touch that one, just throwing it out there).
During World War II, Hamilton and other American watch brands halted production of consumer products, fulfilling government orders of military-issued watches. It’s often said that this contributed to the downfall of American watchmaking, as Swiss alternatives flooded the US market in lieu of domestic offerings.
The Hamilton Richmond – among the last pre-war Hamilton wristwatches – is absolutely gorgeous. Thanks to Mark at vintagehamilton.com, I’m able to share a copy of Hamilton’s original design for the Richmond dial (pictured above). The stylized applied gold numerals, “moderne” handset, and railroad track around both the dial and small seconds subdial are, in a word, charming. For me, the tonneau-shaped case is what makes this watch so special. It wears more like a bracelet than a wristwatch.
The Richmond features a design characteristic that was somewhat standard at the time: “female springbars”. Instead of the springbar system you’re likely accustomed to – lugs with small bores that accept traditional springbars – the Hamilton Richmond features lugs with fixed protrusions (lug pins) that accept springbars with bores, or “female springbars”.
Hamilton Richmond lug pins (left) and female springbars (right). Images courtesy of hamiltonchronicles.com
When I received the watch, my grandpa advised me to replace the strap, something I planned on doing sooner rather than later. Upon taking a springbar tool to the lugs, the 12 o’clock side of the strap came off as expected. It wasn’t until the 6 o’clock side that I ran into some difficulty. Come to find out, the 6 o’clock side retained the original lug pins (though very worn down) and a female springbar, while the 12 o’clock side was drilled to accept traditional springbars. Looking a bit closer, this drillwork was less than uniform, with one lug drilled all the way through and the other drilled about halfway. Furthermore, the fully-drilled lug was warped and worn-down such that it was at risk of snapping. All of this is pictured below.
At this point, you probably realize how and why I modified my great-great-grandfather’s Hamilton Richmond. Because the 12 o’clock side was already drilled to accept traditional springbars, and pretty shoddily at that, the decision was essentially made for me. I took the watch to a local watchmaker (who referred me to a trusted jeweler), and requested that the lug pins be drilled and the DIY lug holes be filled and redrilled. Luckily, this jeweler did a great job at a reasonable price.
While I had my hesitations about taking in a newly-acquired heirloom for reconstructive surgery, I knew that if it were done well, it would result in a watch that’s both structurally sound and compatible with modern straps. As someone who likes to swap out straps and actually wear my watches, I knew that this modification had to be done. Needless to say, I’m elated with the results. As I mentioned earlier, very few people are lucky enough to receive an heirloom watch. By modifying the lugs to accept traditional springbars, I bought myself infinitely more optionality, ease of use, and subsequently, life out of this incredibly special piece. I’m beyond grateful to be able to wear my great-great-grandfather’s watch. If you see me at Watches and Wonders in Geneva this April, I’ll be happy to show it to you.]]>
Currently listed on Bezel for $10,910
The Rolex Milgauss, discontinued last year at Watches and Wonders, is a bit of a black sheep in The Crown’s catalog. Rarely do we see sweeping changes in Rolex model families; the brand is famous for their slow-and-steady approach to design evolution. However, all three generations of the Rolex Milgauss have seen near-comprehensive visual overhauls.
The short-run first generation (ref. 6451) is essentially unobtanium: any good example is worthy of living in a museum. The second generation (ref. 1019) can be had for no less than $25,000 and, in my opinion, lacks the unique characteristics that make the Milgauss special (at least the visible ones). The recently-discontinued generation – those with 6-digit reference numbers – are widely-available for around (and often below) their original retail price. One configuration stands out as the quintessential example of the modern Milgauss: the Z-Blue dial with a green-tinted sapphire crystal. The bright orange seconds hand and minutes track pop against their complimentary-colored blue dial. All this is seen through green-tinted sapphire: something that Rolex had never done before this model and has not done since.
At the time of publishing, there are 21 examples of the Z-Blue Rolex Milgauss available on Bezel, with the lowest price at just $10,910. For the most sought-after configuration of a categorically unique, discontinued Rolex sports watch, this could be the best price we see in some time.
Currently listed on Bezel for $18,700
Of all the cleverly-nicknamed Rolex GMT-Master configurations, the brown and gold ‘Root Beer’ is perhaps the least talked about. In 1970, over a decade after Rolex unveiled the GMT-Master ref. 1675, they released a brown, steel, and yellow gold variant in the ref. 1675/3. Over the subsequent decades, this ‘Root Beer’ color motif ventured in and out of Rolex’s catalog, existing today under the solid Everose (rose gold) ref. 12675CHNR and the two-tone steel and Everose ref. 126711CHNR.
Despite its lower price, I feel that the two-tone model has a bit more going for it. With the majority of its surfaces being brushed steel, this watch feels right at home as an everyday wear. The rose gold accents, while polished and lustrous, blend nicely with brown and black such that they don’t dominate the look of the watch. It truly is “unusually understated”, as Bezel’s Head of Watch Operations, Ryan Chong puts it.
At the time of publishing, there are 48 examples of the two-tone ‘Root Beer’ Rolex GMT-Master II available on Bezel, with the lowest price coming in at $18,700. As with most current Rolex watches, the Root Beer GMT trades above its retail price of $16,150. For some context, however, the two-tone steel and yellow gold GMT-Master II still trades above $20,000. As modern precious metal GMT-Masters go, the ‘Root Beer’ is approachable in both its wearability and pricing.
Currently listed on Bezel for $67,500
The Rolex Day-Date should need no introduction. Its iconic fluted bezel and three-link ‘President’ bracelet make for perhaps the most recognizable watch silhouette of all time. For decades, the Rolex Day-Date has been a symbol of success, occupying the wrists of world leaders, Hollywood stars, etc. For nearly all 67 years of the watch’s existence, a platinum version has existed. However, not until 2022 was a platinum Day-Date offered with a fluted bezel. This marriage between Rolex's iconic bezel design and their most illustrious precious metal is not only historically significant – it’s just plain cool. Paired with an Ice Blue dial – the color Rolex uses to distinguish “the noblest of metals” – this watch is a complete knockout.
At the time of publishing, there is only one example of a Rolex Day-Date 36 in Platinum with an Ice Blue dial, with an asking price of $67,500. This is a watch that, even if you have an extensive purchase history with a Rolex authorized dealer, is hard to obtain. If you’re in the market for a platinum Day-Date, especially one with a fluted bezel, you might not get a better opportunity than this. Bezel can get it to you in 3-5 business days with a certificate of authenticity to boot.
Digital rendering of potential new Milgauss with rotating bezel.
Of course, the answer to this question will change depending on who you ask. Some demand a rotating bezel a la the original Milgauss ref. 6541. Others insist that a Milgauss revival should utilize the Air-King’s new case, introducing crown guards while retaining the dial design and color palette of the most recent generation. Purists will claim that, due to the Milgauss’ historic use of an iron Faraday cage (essentially an internal antimagnetic chamber), any future Milgauss should do the same. However, the advent of amagnetic/paramagnetic hairsprings (namely those made of silicon) has rendered this bulky Faraday cage obsolete. Furthermore, a 2023 patent from one Rolex SA takes material-driven anti-magnetism to the next level, perhaps indicating the revival of the Milgauss.
Image Source: database.ipi.ch
Rolex has been using paramagnetic hairsprings (Parachrom) since 2000 and amagnetic hairsprings (Syloxi) since 2014. This is nothing new. However, a patent filed in 2022 (published in 2023) details a balance wheel innovation that nearly doubles the anti-magnetism of any existing Rolex watch. Instead of using a copper-beryllium alloy – the current material used for all Rolex balance wheels – Rolex decided to test a lead-free brass material referred to as “Eco-brass”. The results, as stated in the patent, were “surprising and unexpected”. The watch was able to withstand up to 40,000 gauss, nearly double that of the 22,500 gauss withstood by current Rolex sports models. In short, Rolex made (and patented) a significant improvement in anti-magnetism simply by opting for a new material. With anti-magnetism at the core of the Milgauss line, could this innovation indicate a revival?
Image Source: watchpro.com
I think it’s completely feasible that we see a new Milgauss at Watches and Wonders 2024. If we do, I expect it to take after the most recent generation: lightning bolt seconds hand, orange (maybe red) accents, a fixed and polished bezel, and hopefully, an optional green-tinted sapphire crystal. So what will be different? I predict that Rolex will ditch the Faraday cage, making for a slimmer watch. I wouldn’t be surprised nor upset if they used the new Air-King case, as many have predicted. In lieu of the Faraday cage, Rolex will opt for either a Syloxi (silicone) hairspring or a Parachrom (paramagnetic metalloid) hairspring paired with a Chronergy escapement. Only time will tell if this “Ecobrass” balance wheel will make it into a 2024 release. Whenever these balance wheels do arrive, I expect them to appear in more watches than just the Milgauss. That said, I think it makes sense for Rolex to wait on the Milgauss’ release to introduce this technology. I hope it happens this April in Geneva!
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Image Source: valueyourwatch.com
When I think of anniversaries, I often think of marriages, and how anniversaries are a symbol of strength, longevity, and a continued commitment to love. Starting in the early 1900s, anniversary gifts for each year of marriage were established, and are now widely used to commemorate such momentous occasions. For example, year 1 is paper, year 5 is wood, year 20 is china, year 50 is gold, year 70 is platinum, and so forth. What do marriages have to do with Rolex? Given that the 70th wedding anniversary is traditionally associated with platinum, I believe we might see the incorporation of this material into the Submariner for its 70th anniversary. It could be fully platinum, feature a platinum bezel insert, or incorporate other platinum features throughout. This nod to the “platinum anniversary” not only aligns with Rolex's commitment to using premium materials, but also imbues the Submariner with a sense of timeless elegance befitting such a significant milestone. In a marriage, the platinum anniversary symbolizes a strong, precious, and rare love that few can achieve. In Rolex, the use of platinum may symbolize the strength, endurance, and rarity of a watch that has maintained its popularity for over 70 years, and doesn’t show any sign of stopping soon.
Image Source: chrono24.com
When it comes to Rolex’s anniversary models, they seem to go hard on precious metals. In 2003, Rolex released the Rolex Submariner 16610LV, with a new set of hands, a more robust dial, and a green bezel insert to celebrate the 50th year of the watch. The case and bracelet, however, were in steel – not precious metal. When released in 2003, this anniversary model was not very appreciated, but is now one of the most sought-after Rolex models ever made (especially the early-run “flat 4” references). I believe that Rolex will iterate upon the current version of this green bezel and black-dialed model in the current collection. I feel they will utilize platinum for the case and bracelet while using the black dial and green bezel already in production. I feel this is something that Rolex may offer for only two or three years. Rolex seems to love quietly killing off models, even with incredibly popular references.
Image Source: swisswatchexpo.com
One more point to note is that, last year, Rolex updated the green bezel on the LV variation of the Submariner (a bit of a brighter green). This may have been their way of simply noting the 70th year of the Submariner without overtly celebrating the model. The mystery of what Rolex is doing adds to the charm of the brand.
Image Source: swisswatch.net
Green is the color of Rolex and, appropriately, it’s the color they use to mark anniversaries. Just look at the 60th anniversary Day-Date, 50th anniversary Submariner, or 50th Anniversary GMT-Master: all incorporate green to celebrate a special landmark. I agree with Mike that Rolex will iterate upon the current LV Submariner, but to spice things up for the 70th anniversary, I believe they’ll bring back the green dial a la 2010 ‘Hulk’. As with many predictions, this may just be wishful thinking; I truly believe that the 116610LV ‘Hulk’ has one of, if not the most stunning dials Rolex has ever produced.
While Rolex is no stranger to platinum, they typically reserve the material for watches with blue dials. As such, I expect an anniversary Submariner to come in either steel or white gold. In all honesty, I wouldn’t be surprised to see a display caseback on an anniversary Submariner, which makes me lean toward white gold over steel: Rolex has yet to use a display caseback on a non-precious watch. Of course, only time will tell what Rolex decides to do. Some predictions will be on the money, and some will be entirely wrong, but one thing is for certain: Rolex will certainly surprise us this spring in Geneva.
]]>Among the brands generating a ton of speculation each year is Tudor (and rightfully so after having some of the best releases last year). While there’s a lot of gossip already, I’m thinking that this year might be more than a new watch, but a new movement Kenissi. For those who don’t know, Kenissi is the movement manufacturer that was created by Tudor and a few other brands as they recognized the importance of controlling the production of key components and creating manufacturing capable of meeting the exacting standards of Tudor (and big-brother Rolex).
Still an incredibly young manufacturer (founded only in 2018), their movements have been incorporated in much of the Tudor collection as well as in models from a multitude of brands. But as you can imagine, being only 6 years old means they still have a lot of work to do. For example, their lack of a chronograph movement. But is this the year that all changes? Rumors suggest that Kenissi may unveil a new chronograph movement, potentially paving the way for Tudor to launch a new iteration of its popular Black Bay Chronograph. After all, we saw a one-off Kenissi-made chronograph movement for Tudor's OnlyWatch 2023 submission. Let's delve into this speculation and explore the possibilities.
Image Source Tudor
Kenissi has garnered acclaim for its precision and innovation in movement manufacturing. Collaborating with esteemed brands like Tudor and Breitling, Kenissi has established itself as a powerhouse in the industry. Speculation abounds that Kenissi may be on the cusp of introducing a new chronograph movement at Watches & Wonders 2024: perhaps something similar to the movement within Tudor's recent yellow gold 'Big Block' Prince Chronograph OnlyWatch submission. Such a development would mark a significant milestone for the brand and could potentially reshape the landscape of mechanical chronographs.
While details remain scarce (much like everything in this horological world of ours), enthusiasts have eagerly dissected teasers and hints from Kenissi, searching for clues about the purported movement. Speculative discussions revolve around the movement's potential features, such as enhanced accuracy, increased power reserve, and improved functionality. Kenissi's track record suggests that any new movement would likely meet the highest standards of craftsmanship and performance. If realized, this innovation could redefine the capabilities of mechanical chronographs, enticing watch aficionados with its blend of traditional craftsmanship and modern technology.
Image Source Monochrome Watches
So what could this new movement do for Tudor? Tudor's Black Bay collection has long been a favorite among watch enthusiasts, admired for its rugged elegance and versatile design. The addition of a chronograph complication to the Black Bay lineup would undoubtedly spark excitement and speculation among collectors and enthusiasts alike. With Kenissi rumored to be developing a new chronograph movement, all eyes are on Tudor to potentially unveil a new Black Bay Chronograph at Watches & Wonders 2024.
While Tudor has remained tight-lipped about its plans, the possibility of a Black Bay Chronograph powered by Kenissi's purported new movement has fueled speculation and anticipation. Enthusiasts envision a timepiece that combines Tudor's iconic design language with the precision and reliability of Kenissi's movement technology. Such a collaboration would likely result in a watch that exceeds expectations in both performance and aesthetics.
Aesthetically, I think Tudor would smartly keep things much the same with a new movement. But I think this special movement would come with a new dial color to make a splash! And selfishly, as an owner and lover of the current blue 58, I’d love to see this new movement launch in a chrono of the same color blue, maybe even with white subdials but I’ll let the professionals figure that part out. In the meantime, I’ll be here speculating with everyone else, hoping to see some excitement here in a few weeks!
Image Source Watch Clicker
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Image Source: Swiss Watch Expo
Quick review of what has been happening in the Rolex world when it comes to bi-color ceramic bezels. As of right now, Rolex offers a blue and black ‘Batman’ variation, a brown and black ‘Root Beer’ variation, a blue and red ‘Pepsi’ variation, a green and black ‘Sprite’ variation and, as of last year, a gray and black variation. These are four stellar offerings from what is, in this writer’s opinion, Rolex’s most sought-after collection in the GMT Master II. However, the “Coke” color combination of red and black has been seemingly ignored by Rolex. From what we have been able to gleam from the connections we have, this ceramic insert has been a real challenge to recreate in Cerachrom (ceramic) …until now.
Image Sources: espacenet.com
The editorial team at Everest has uncovered a not-so-obvious patent filed by Rolex, for a process of manufacturing two-colored ceramic inserts, notably those that are black and red. It was filed in 2022, but published just a few days ago on January 31st. The original patent documentation is entirely in French, but the document name is translated to “Production of a multi-coloured ceramic component” and the detailed drawings are pictured above. The documentation clarifies a focus on melding the color red and the color black into a two colored ceramic ring. Here is a direct quote from the ‘Summary Of The Invention’ section of the patent:
“More specifically, a first object of the present invention is to propose a solution for manufacturing a ceramic component that makes it possible to obtain a ceramic whose colour is controlled, notably making it possible to obtain a multicoloured, notably two-tone, notably red and black result.”
I was able to review the entirety of the documentation attached to the patent, clearly stating that the purpose of this patent is for processing the production of a two-colored bezel in red and black. With Watches and Wonders just around the corner, will we see a ‘Coke’ comeback?
While there’s no surefire way to know what Rolex will release at any given time, this newly-published patent at least tells us that The Crown is making an effort to produce red and black ‘Coke’ ceramic bezel inserts. My gut tells me that 2024 is the year we’ll see the ‘Coke’ comeback, but what do you think? Let us know in the comments below.
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Last year’s prediction primarily revolved around the Pelagos 39’s finishing. In short, the existing Pelagos 39 features a sunray finish on both the dial and bezel: a texture not seen on any other Pelagos model, and a highly-polarizing one at that. Many people feel that a so-called “true” dive watch should have a matte finish for legibility’s sake. After all, every other Pelagos follows this logic. Having tried on the watch several times, I see where this protest is coming from, but frankly, I think people are blowing it out of proportion. While you do get some additional light reflection, the Pelagos 39’s sunray finish – especially on the dial – is minimal and should not make or break your decision to purchase one.
All that said, I think matte is the way to go for a blue Pelagos 39. Ever since the first blue Tudor diver was released in 1975 (Submariner ref. 9401), the color has been matched with a matte finish. This iconic powder blue dial and bezel combo is emblematic of Tudor dive watches. Tudor has made an effort to uphold their history in both their Black Bay and Pelagos collections, and in my opinion, they’ve done a great job. Maintaining a matte blue finish on the Pelagos 39 feels like the right decision.
Image Source: analogshift.com
We very well could see a blue Pelagos 39 at Watches and Wonders. That said, 2024 is the 70th anniversary of the Tudor Submariner, and as far as dive watch releases are concerned, Tudor might want to focus on this historic anniversary. Furthermore, we’ve seen Rolex and Tudor stray more and more from the traditional trade show schedule over the past couple of years: one example being last year’s black Pelagos FXD. Perhaps Tudor will save something as simple as a color change for later in the year, so as to not detract from a potential Submariner tribute and simultaneously upkeep media buzz later in the calendar year. Of course, only time will tell what Tudor releases this year at Watches and Wonders. What I can say with some certainty is that I, along with the Everest team will be there to cover every major release.
]]>Everest offers 3 tiers of watch tools. Every tier is made from extremely high quality materials, such as stainless steel with grooved barrels, and every tier will work perfectly for changing a strap on a watch. These tiers are: Travel Watch Tools, Premier Watch Tools, and Watchmaker Caliper Tools.
Let’s start by discussing the universal components of all Everest watch tools. Then, we will break down the different tools Everest offers so we have a complete understanding of which tools are best for you and your particular Rolex or Tudor watch (or other watches as well). It’s important to note that every Everest watch tool kit comes with a combination of at least 2 tools – a spring bar remover tool, and a screwdriver. These two types of tools are generally the only tools you will need to change the watch strap on your watch.
Spring bar remover tools have a forked tip and are used to remove the spring bars in a watch at the location where the bracelet attaches to the case. They are also used to attach watch straps to the watch case in this location. Spring bar remover tools can also be used to attach a buckle to a watch strap, if applicable. Spring bar removal tools work by delicately depressing the spring bar to get it to either pop into place or pop out of place. Spring bar remover tools come in a few different sizes and types (a single forked piece or double forked caliper types).
Everest tool kits also come with screwdrivers – these small tools are used to remove bracelet links from your watch and also to install a deployant watch strap. Everest screwdrivers come in 2 types — one specifically for Oyster bracelets (pictured below, left) and one for Jubilee bracelets (pictured below, right) as each of those watch bracelets include screws of different sizes. While all Everest screwdrivers are excellent quality, there is one notable difference that may be important to you and that is the size of the screwdriver tip. Jubilee screwdriver tips are smaller (1.4mm) and will work for Jubilee, Tudor, and Oyster bracelets. Oyster screwdriver tips are bigger (1.6mm) and will only work for watches on Oyster bracelets. It’s important to know which bracelet type you have before selecting an Everest tool kit.
Image Source: rolexforums.com
Travel Oyster Bracelet Tool Kit and Travel Jubilee Bracelet Tool Kit
Everest’s Travel Tool Kits are a great option for budget-minded customers or for people who travel often using carry-on items. This size of this tool kit is technically TSA carry-on approved, as TSA approves any screwdriver under seven inches. Everest Travel Tool kits include a screwdriver with a 1.6mm tip (for watches on Oyster bracelets) or a screwdriver with a 1.4mm tip (for watches on Jubilee bracelets or Tudor models) and a universal travel sized spring bar tool. The screwdriver makes it possible to take off or add links to your watch. It is also a helpful tool to use when taking off your original Rolex clasp and putting it onto Everest's deployant strap. On the other hand, the spring bar tool helps to assist the spring bars out of the lug holes and off of the watch’s case. These two tools make it so that the installation process is easy and quick! Due to the smaller size of these tools, we wouldn’t recommend them to customers with large hands, or customers who don’t feel confident using small tools. These tools retail for approximately $25-$30.
Premier Oyster Bracelet Tool Removal and Installation Set and Premier Jubilee and Tudor Bracelet Tool Removal and Installation Set.
Like all Everest watch tool kits, the premier tool kits come with both a watch screwdriver and a spring bar remover tool. However, one notable difference from the travel tool kits is the type of springbar removal tool included. In the premier tool kits, customers benefit from a more versatile and larger spring bar tool. This tool features an interchangeable and replaceable spring bar head and offers a reversible tip for a vintage lug style spring bar removal pin or a modern spring bar removal fork tip. The tool has a blasted finish which ensures the tool does not slip while installing straps or bracelets. The grooved barrel and rotating head of the screwdriver offers an easy install or removal of 1.6mm screws or 1.4mm screws, respectively, and offer precise fits for Rolex oyster or jubilee links, Rolex, Tudor, and Everest buckles. We would recommend these tools for customers who like a larger tool in their hands or who are looking for a more premier product. These tools retail for approximately $45-$50.
Everest Spring Bar Calipers and Watchmakers Screwdriver for Oyster Bracelet and Everest Spring Bar Calipers and Watchmakers Screwdriver for Jubilee and Tudor Bracelet
This tool kit is the best of the best, the ultimate tool watch kit that allows you to remove your watch bracelet from the case with absolute ease, comfort, and precision. The beauty of this tool kit is that it is both the preferred tool kit of hard-core experienced watch enthusiasts, while also simultaneously being the best and easiest watch tool kit for beginners. This kit includes a black, high quality antimagnetic stainless steel Everest Tweezer which is a professional watchmaker tool. These caliper tweezers are equipped with very fine forked tips to reach narrow openings as small as 1mm which gives the user easy and safe access to the spring bars with minimal risk of scratching the back of the lugs or losing a spring bar. Instead of needing to pop out each side of a spring bar individually, the tweezers allow you to pop both out at one time with one easy, smooth motion. Included in this ultimate tool kit is Everest's premier screwdriver, equipped with a grooved barrel and rotating head, extra forked tips, and a tool to tighten the calipers as needed. These tools demand a higher price point but are well worth it for the ease of installation, ease of use, and peace of mind in protecting the case of your Rolex. Here's a video of the springbar calipers in action.
Deciding which tool kit is best for you is a personal decision. If you want the absolute best, safest, and easiest, we highly recommend the Everest Spring Bar Calipers and Watchmakers Screwdriver for Oyster Bracelet or the jubilee version of this tool. However, all of Everest watch tool kits are high quality and will work extremely well for changing the strap or adjusting your Rolex watch. ]]>
Image Source: analogshift.com
Produced for just 3 years (2014-2017), the Sea-Dweller “4000” is a modern classic. The 4000-foot deep-diver incorporates much of the charm found in its 5-digit predecessors while offering some modern creature comforts found in today’s iteration. Like Sea-Dwellers of old, the SD4000 comes in at just 40mm. This versatile size fits far more wrists than the modern 43mm version. Unlike older examples, however, the SD4000 features a virtually-scratchproof Cerachrom (ceramic) bezel insert. Furthermore, its clasp features Glidelock: Rolex’s beloved toolless microadjustment system. You won’t find this on any other 40mm Sea-Dweller, and once you’ve tried Glidelock, it’s hard to live without it.
Currently listed on Bezel for $11,790
At the time of publishing, there are 15 examples of the Rolex Sea-Dweller 116600 available on Bezel, with the lowest price falling just below $12,000. Since its 2017 discontinuation, the Sea-Dweller 4000 has traded above retail, but rest assured, this is the lowest the watch has traded for in almost three years. If you’re looking for a certified-authentic example at no additional cost, look no further than Bezel.
Image Source: chronohunter.com
In 2020, Rolex released a colorful collection of Oyster Perpetuals. Among these colors is a dark green unlike any dial that Rolex has ever made. The lacquered finish is similar to the Stella dials of the 1970s and ‘80s, but such a finish has never been paired with such a dark hue of green. Available in 31mm, 36mm, and 41mm, there’s plenty of optionality when it comes to sizing. For my money (and wrist), 36mm is perfect for a vivid colorful dial: not too big, but still plenty legible. Inside this OP is Rolex’s automatic caliber 3230, featuring 70 hours of power reserve, an antimagnetic hairspring, and Rolex’s Chronergy escapement: a hyper-efficient regulator that’s among the most significant advancements in modern watchmaking history.
Currently listed on Bezel for $9,888
As of today, there are eight examples of the green Oyster Perpetual 36 available on Bezel, most of which are unworn. The lowest price falls just below $10,000. While this watch is still in Rolex’s active catalog, you’d have to wait for an unknown period of time before getting “the call” from an authorized dealer. If you want this watch within 3-5 business days with a certificate of authenticity to boot, Bezel is your best bet.
Last but not least, I’d like to include a watch unlike anything we’ve ever featured on Hidden Gems. While I’ve talked ad nauseum about “Zenith” Rolex Daytonas – those with five-digit reference numbers and modified Zenith El Primero movements – I haven’t discussed the ref. 16528 Daytona “Chairman”. This blue-dialed 18k gold beauty was made for select Rolex senior management in 1991. Rolex’s dial manufacturer at the time, Singer, made very few of these blue sunray dials, making it near-impossible to convert any other yellow gold Zenith Daytona to a “Chairman” (a common practice with Paul Newmans, “Big Reds”, etc.). Furthermore, only 12 examples of this watch are known to exist, making it one of the most collectible Daytonas, and in turn, watches, on the market. Despite its rarity and striking color/material configuration, the “Chairman” tends to get lost in the shuffle of desirable Daytonas: a true hidden gem.
Currently listed on Bezel for $445,030
Keeping in mind that there are only 12 examples known in the world, just one is available on Bezel. The asking price is just south of $450,000, but is open to offers. Looking at prior “Chairman” listings, this is an appropriate ask in today’s market. While the watch falls under a different tax bracket than most Hidden Gems picks, it’s one of the rarest Rolexes of all time, and is somehow seldom talked about.
Bezel is the top marketplace for authenticated luxury watches. While they offer a vast collection of Rolex models, from which we feature our favorites here, Bezel lists watches from over 90 brands and counting. Each and every watch sold on Bezel goes through expert in-house authentication: an invaluable resource in the secondhand watch market. You also have access to a private client advisor from the Bezel concierge team: yet another expert who can answer your questions along the way. If you’re looking for a better way to buy and sell watches, be sure to install the Bezel app, or simply visit them at getbezel.com
]]>Last year, Rolex released two colorful dials in the Oyster Perpetual ‘Celebration’ and the Day-Date ‘Puzzle’. The ‘Celebration’ OP dial contains every color from Rolex’s 2020 Oyster Perpetual release: candy pink, coral red, yellow, green, and turquoise. Christian posits that the ‘Celebration’ OP marks the end of this colorful collection (although three of those five colors are still in Rolex’s catalog). In turn, Christian predicts that the colors seen on the enamel ‘Puzzle’ dial Day-Date (turquoise, yellow, light green, purple, orange, and red) will be unveiled as a collection of enamel Day-Dates, honoring the vibrant Stella dial Day-Dates of the ‘70s and ‘80s (pictured below). Once you “put the puzzle pieces together”, as Christian puts it, this prediction seems very plausible. Bravo, Mr. Zeron.
Image Source: bosshunting.com
I can’t help but think (wish, hope?) that this prediction will come true. Like I mentioned before, it just seems glaringly obvious once explained. Everything down to the puzzle motif posing a challenge to “solve” such an easter egg feels painstakingly intentional. Maybe it’s my confirmation bias speaking, but I‘m confident that we'll see enamel Day-Dates whose dials match the colors on the 2023 ‘Puzzle’ dial. Now, will we see them in 2024? That’s where my firm belief softens.
In 2020, Rolex unveiled the colorful collection of Oyster Perpetuals. Three years later, we get the ‘Celebration’ Oyster Perpetual: a culmination of all these colors. I do think that the ‘Celebration’ OP is a symbolic grand finale for the vibrant line of time-only watches. That said, a few of these colors are still being produced, namely green, turquoise, and candy pink. I don’t think we’ll see a collection of colorful Day-Dates until these OP colors are phased out.
Image Source: hodinkee.com
Now, who’s to say the 2020 OPs won’t be phased out in 2024 in tandem with the new Day-Date release? It could happen, but I predict that Rolex will allow some time for these 2023 watches to breathe, exist, and be delivered to those waiting for them. It’s more likely that we see a mirrored release schedule wherein the enamel Day-Dates are released three years following the 2023 ‘Puzzle’ dial, placing their release in 2026. Let’s remember that Rolex operates on a large time horizon: due in part to the time it takes to create new watches, and in part to their exceptional foresight, patience, and longevity. There’s no need to rush this one. In the meantime, why not keep selling colorful OPs?
Header Image Source: acollectedman.com
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